Simply Refined

New Site Launch

2011-06-01T02:29:00.000-04:00

Please head over to www.thesimplyrefined.com to see the new Simply Refined. It’s been a while in the making, but we needed a new site. We’ve been outgrowing the original site for quite some time now, and to give you the best experience it was time for some change. We are approaching two hundred articles, and would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who has helped Simply Refined grow and flourish since it began in March 2010.

Memorial Day

2011-05-30T10:38:00.002-04:00

Have a happy Memorial Day filled with family, friends, and hopefully some good grub!

Of Ballads and Bookstores

2011-05-27T06:34:00.015-04:00

If you're anything like me, you revel in old bookshops. Although in an unlikely location, Saratoga Springs' Lyrical Ballad Bookstore is one of the finest bookshops I have ever had the privilege of entering. Barring those containing mostly first editions and autographed manuscripts which would strip me of more coin than a vintage Bugatti, it might be the finest.

It's times like these I wish I had an extremely wide-angle lens. But then again, once surrounded by the smells of leather and paper, spending money on a hunk of glass seems pretty bad economy. Thus I apologize for the lack of pictures, my paltry descriptions will have to suffice for now.

Upon first entering, Lyrical Ballad is unassuming enough. Two medium sized rooms, and as most used bookstores have, there are books piled on almost every piece of floor or fixture which can accommodate them. And then you walk down the hall. Quickly you realize you've gotten yourself into much more than you thought. It turns out the bookstore was built in 1971 after the Saratoga Bank closed and no longer needed its basement. This included the vault. So, now, safely tucked in dark corridors, low-ceilings passages, and behind two-inch-thick iron bars are a different kind of loot. I counted at least a dozen complete sets of the Waverley printed before 1910, too many volumes of Byron to count, and more than a handful of Dickens collections.

Yes, this is all standard Ye Olde Bookshop fodder, but it doesn't end there. In fact, things are just getting interesting. If you wander to the back, past the poetry wall, the stacks of nineteenth and twentieth century prints, the vintage maps, and the ornithological diagrams, you'll find an old cabinet containing what might be the most apropos piece in the shop. Staring back at me from behind the glass was an 1883, full-size folio of The Rime of the Ancyent Marinere, complete with Gustave Doré's brilliant prints. It was an overcast day, and even by the front of the shop I couldn't get a decent picture. But, if you've never seen these larger than paperback-size, I highly recommend seeking them out. And with that, have a very Romantic weekend.

A Little Piece of Home

2011-05-25T07:05:00.000-04:00

I'm basically a creature of habit. But then again, I love to travel. The travel alarm clock satisfies both my reticent and adventurous sides.

This little plastic Braun alarm clock sits cozily next to my bed, whether at home, on the other side of the earth, or in this case in a hotel room in upstate New York. It might sound foolish, but it's one of the little comforts that makes an unfamiliar place feel a bit more like home. You don't get to pick the art on your walls, the size and shape of your furniture, or much else for that matter. You can choose your clock though.

The design on this particular model is a modern classic, and you can still pick up the reissue of the AB1A for a pretty modest sum. The German design duo Dieter Rams and Dietrich Lubs really nailed it with this one. That said, I can't say I'd complain about trading it in for a slightly more baroque model from Asprey, Tiffany, or Cartier. A little leather and silver never hurt anyone, now did they?

Supping in Saratoga Springs

2011-05-23T08:52:00.004-04:00

I mentioned recently that Simply Refined would be relocating to Chicago in the fall, but for the next few months we'll be based in Saratoga Springs, NY. I just moved up yesterday morning, and am living in a hotel in downtown Saratoga with my father until our apartment is ready later in the week. Later this summer you can expect we'll be featuring the world-famous Saratoga Racetrack, various symphonic and theatrical performances, and more from the New York area.

But, for now, my excitement is limited to some good room service. After stopping by a local wine shop this afternoon and picking up a bottle of dry rosé from Provence I knew seafood was a requirement. So, when I found out I could get oysters and seafood chowder sent right up I was elated. The presentation was more self-serve than Sheekey's, but the oysters were fresh and meaty, the chowder was more stew than soup, and the wine hit the mark perfectly. If you're not drinking rosé this time of year, you're missing out. The good stuff comes mostly from southern France, is bone dry but fruity, and makes the perfect companion to seafood, salads, and other warm-weather fare. And at less than $15 for most offerings, you can afford that second half-dozen oysters.

Simply Slippers

2011-05-20T07:55:00.002-04:00

All the young ladies I know have spent the last few weeks fretting about graduation frocks, and I must admit the commotion got the better of me. I got the itch for some new "graduation shoes."

These R. Martegani slippers are on deep, deep discount at Franco's and if you want a pair I recommend snatching them up pretty quickly. The suede is buttery soft and the lining light-weight. Martegani styled these with the perfect mix of details to give this slipper the perfect touch of insouciance that I just love this time of year. The slant heel and Blake sole keep the profile low and lean and the short vamp gives them the appearance of being more bedroom slipper than street shoe. You can see I've worn them a couple of times, both with and without socks, and they've taken these first beatings pretty well.

Now I wouldn't recommend trekking anywhere serious in these, or even spending a whole day walking city streets. The soles are sturdy, but still fairly thin, and best for lounging. This may sound useless - a pair of shoes not really meant for walking in - but as summer settles in, so do I. Kicking my feet up in a pair of louche loafers is exactly what I want this time of year. Honestly, when it's ninety degrees plus out, how much walking do you really want to do?

Graduation Gala

2011-05-18T10:55:00.000-04:00

Well, it's finally here - Graduation Week. I've got my gown and cap in hand, the campus is beginning to team with parents and relatives, and the University has planted a few thousand flowers to compensate for the mediocre weather.

But before we graduate on Thursday and Friday, the Chancellor was kind enough to host a gala dinner Monday night. The dresscode was "Black Tie Options, Cocktail" and I must say I was surprised at the results. The gents who had DJs wore them, and I saw less than a handful not wearing dark suits and ties. Obviously it was no stomp at the Savoy, but I'm proud of my contemporaries for putting on a coat and wrapping some silk around their necks - I was expecting the worst. In fact, it was the ladies who seemed to not understand that a cocktail dress and what they might wear to a nightclub are not the same thing.

Now if only we can get the guys to adopt the white-shirt-after-six rule...

A Different Gin

2011-05-16T10:51:00.000-04:00

This time of year usually finds me putting down the whisky and brandy in favor of lighter spirits and cocktails. But, with our unseasonably cool temperatures I've been forced to find something new.

Enter Ransom Gin. The good folks at Ransom Spirits in Sheridan, Oregon took their Old Tom Gin, a sweeter style gin popular in the nineteenth and early twentieth century and put some age on it. The result is a slightly sweet, slightly creamy concoction unlike any gin you've ever tasted. It makes quite an appealing but unusual gin and tonic, but I prefer to take mine over a single cube of ice. It's the perfect spring aperitif.

Boating Loafers?

2011-05-13T15:56:00.000-04:00

Sorry for the late post today - blogger was temporarily down. But, better late than never.

I've written before about my love-affair withe summer driving shoes. They're lightweight, easy to wear sockless, and can usually be depended upon for a bit of color pop. Sometimes though I want something more low-key. On a college campus the boat shoe is ubiquitous, and something more likely to get one invited to a frat party than a yacht club. So there goes that idea. Instead I've adopted the above pair of drivers that have more of a Sperry meets Tods vibe.

This particular model is a two or three year old Cole Haan/Nike concoction, but they seem to be making something suspiciously similar this year as well. The Air Grant, as it is now called, combines the rough-and-tumble laces of the boat shoe with the rubber-nub sole of a driver. Throw in faded gray nubuck, pebble-grain leather, and some thick blue stitching and you've got yourself a great mix of nautical styling and Italian form. If you want an slightly more continental alternative to the boat shoe, this is my pick.

Toasting Myself

2011-05-11T08:06:00.001-04:00

No, I'm not double-fisting my whisky tonight. I'm quintuple-fisting. As of Monday evening I am officially finished with my undergraduate education and will be graduating next week. So, I decided to treat myself to a little Tuesday night whisky tasting. You'll be able to read all about it soon on Gentleman's Gazette, so keep your eyes peeled.

Also I think this is the perfect time to announce some big news, not just for me, but for all of you who read Simply Refined as well. With graduation comes moving, and beginning in September, Simply Refined will be based in Chicago. There will also be an exciting new website coming soon, so stayed tuned for lots of exciting improvements, new features, and, most importantly, a climate that will let me wear flannel and tweed nine months out of the year.

Mother's Day Inspiration

2011-05-09T08:43:00.005-04:00

Sadly I wasn't able to spend Mother's Day with my own fantastic mother this year, but I did get to spend it with my girlfriend and her wonderful mother. After an early breakfast, we tried to beat the heat to the Missouri Botanical Gardens. Despite your probable skepticism due to their being in Missouri, trust me they're some of the best gardens in the country.

It gave me a great chance to break out the brand spanking new camera, a Canon T2i, and collect color inspiration for the summer. I love flowers, and not just when they're in my buttonhole. I've failed at keeping quite a few orchids (damned drafty apartment) and love the infinite array of colors and shapes nature provides us with. I shot over a hundred different flowers, and came home with plenty of ideas for new color combination.

Now I just have to call up Michael Drake and find the ties to make this happen...

Unseasonal Neckwear

2011-05-06T08:34:00.003-04:00

The weather has been madness this year. Utter madness. It was 80 in November, and now we're getting temperatures in the 50s during May. Today I wasn't complaining though as it gave me as good a reason as any to tie on my newest acquisition.

My friend Raphael over at Gentleman's Gazette sent me one of the wonderful ties given to him by Panta, a purveyor of ties and pants made in New York state. The tie is an unlined, 6-fold cashmere herringbone, and just the thing to keep the late-spring chill at bay. As Raphael notes in his review, the tie is quite long. For someone of my more diminutive stature, a double four-in-hand or Pratt knot is required. Even then the tail is longer than the front blade, but with such an unstructured tie I think it adds that extra bit of insouciance anyway.

As for the object itself, it is absolutely exquisite. I have a few wool and cashmere ties, but nothing as soft as this. Because it's unlined, all you've got is the unstructured cashmere, so it feels almost more like a scarf than a typical tie when you pick it up. The handwork is great, and stitching is just enough off-kilter to let you know it wasn't done by a machine. In other words, it's not perfect, which for me is just perfect.

A Very Dashing Jacket

2011-05-04T08:37:00.001-04:00

Regular readers will know I have a bit of an infatuation with tweed, especially the really colorful stuff. Now there is the very traditional Harris Tweed, loads of overchecked Estate Tweeds, and then there is Dashing Tweeds, which is a totally different animal altogether.

Dashing Tweeds is a part of the Hills McDougall weaving studio, the Hills half of which is Mr. Guy Hills, a good friend of mine. Mr. Hills is a photographer, and when he began shooting things for folks up and down Savile Row decided he loved the tailoring, but wanted something with a bit more modern pizazz. So, he did the sensible thing and started his own line of cloth. Now you can find Dashing Tweeds at many of the world's best tailors, and Mr. Hills has been releasing bits and bobs of Ready to Wear and Made to Measure over the last few years.

The newest of these mad creations is actually not mad at all. The new cycling jacket is a brilliant mix of modern couture (those shoulders are very Thierry Mugler) and functional sportswear. The pockets are angled so you can reach across while keeping one hand on your bicycle, the tweed and inlayed strips are reflective, and the underarms are cut out so you don't arrive at your destination soaking wet. They should be up on the Dashing Tweeds website soon enough, but I'll be sure to keep you all updated.

Cut it Out

2011-05-02T08:30:00.002-04:00

Classes are over, exams are next week, and graduation a week and a half after that. I'll be out of this apartment by the end of the month, and that means one thing - throwing things out. Moving is a glorious time for curating one's possessions and junking all the...well, junk.

Some magazines you want to hold onto, while others are essentially disposable. I won't be chucking out my back issues of The Rake, but keeping dozens of copies of GQ and Esquire just seems foolish. So, I got out a knife and starting doing some printed sartorial surgery.

The box you see above is just one of a few that contained the last few years of magazines that I've accumulated from subscriptions, boring layovers, and homework procrastination. Today they're no longer taking up half my closet space, instead residing in the recycling dumpster out back. Cutting out any ads, editorial shoots, and great articles I wanted to save, I managed to cram years of reading into a simply accordion file. From here on out I'll do this at the end of every month, and keep an ordered file of what I find. Method always comes after the maddness.

Royal Matrimony

2011-04-29T07:43:00.002-04:00

I, like much of the world will be up watching the wedding of HRH Prince William and Miss Kate Middleton this morning. At the ungodly hour of 4am I might add. But, for me, the real excitement will come when the ceremony itself is all over.

My friend and mentor Mr. James Sherwood will be reporting on BBC News, from 4pm to 9pm London time. By that time the sun will be up and I might just have to pop some bubbles for the occasion. His astute eye and wit are sure to be the most entertaining part of the day. Not to mention the Anderson & Sheppard and Huntsman suits he should be wearing.

Accessories Swap

2011-04-27T08:13:00.005-04:00

I was chatting with my good friend Christian Kimber, of Style Sage, the other day and we thought it might be nice to swap some advice for our readers. After some deliberation, we decided to each send the other our three favorite accessories. So, below you'll find Christian's favorites, and you can find mine on Style Sage. Enjoy.

Collar Pin

I picked up this pin in Melbourne quite recently. I had been searching for a while to find the perfect one. Fitting perfectly under my tie knot, it’s a rather attractive detail. I’m not ashamed to say I might have been influenced by the likes of Rodger Sterling and maybe even Mr Ford. Although It’s important to find the correct collar to match. A lot of chaps take their shirts to their tailor to have holes sewn into their collars; I just force the pin through, perhaps a little careless. I find ideally worn with a small "school boy" knot, otherwise the collar looks a little too squashed. I'm not really a fan of the Winsdor. The Duke on the other hand was a marvelously dressed man.

Braces

I love braces, and whenever I buy a pair of trousers or suits I have the buttons sewn in immediately. I find I mostly wear them casually, with an oxford shirt and loafers. I found this pair from Lanvin at Liberty's of London, (a beautiful Tudor styled department store) a while ago. Ideal with a white shirt. The eccentric coloring of the paisley silk and details make them rather special

Bow Tie

I do love a perfectly shaped bow tie, and if you’re interested in the writing of Simply Refined I’m sure you do too. This is the latest bow in my collection. I’ve wanted a Tom Ford bow tie for a long time, since visiting his store in New York a few years ago. The silk is beautifully thick and the perfect size . A very dear girl surprised me with it at Christmas – It seems a girl who surprises you with a bow tie is one to keep.

In Defense of the Brandy & Soda

2011-04-22T07:54:00.000-04:00

I'm standing up in defense of the oft-forgotten Brandy and Soda. A pressing issue of the day, I know. You may all breathe easy now that this eminently sippable cocktail has a found its champion.

As for fizzy drinks, most people these days lean towards the classic G&T or the slightly more hairy-chested Scotch and Soda. But there are some situations that beg for something in between the two. Tonight for example. It's in the low 60s out, balmy, but not cold. I don't want the crisp, refreshing dryness of the G&T, and the heft of the Scotch and Soda would be just a little overbearing. Enter the Brandy and Soda. A little sweet, but balanced nicely by the bubbles, it goes down smoothly and neither sits heavy nor makes me shiver.

I recommend going a little heavier on the booze than you might with either of the other two. A good 2 to 3 oz pour, over a few cubes of ice, and topped up with maybe 5 oz of soda will do nicely. A bit strong, like Bertie Wooster liked his, but perfectly balanced. Do you have a favorite summer sipper?

A Shakespearean Scent?

2011-04-20T01:07:00.000-04:00

Do you ever read something and immediately dial your phone so you can tell someone what you've read? Maybe it's just me, but sometimes I get too excited to wait. Well tonight when reading Glamour in Six Dimensions: Modernism and the Radiance of Form I came across some speculation regarding the origin of Chanel No.5 and nearly rolled out of my chair reaching for my iPhone.

The author, not the first person to suggest this, claims that the perfume's name could in fact be a reference to Shakespeare's Sonnet No. 5, which famously contains the following lines:

     A liquid prisoner pent in walls of glass,
     Beauty's effect with beauty were bereft,
     Nor it nor no rememberance what it was:
          But flowers distill'd, though they with winter meet,
          Leese but their show; their substance still lives sweet.

Ok, it could just be that Mlle. Chanel's birthday was May 5 or that this was the fifth formulation, but I'm going to stick to this much more Romantic co-incidence along with Ms. Judith Brown. If you're at all interested in the aesthetic principles which construct and convey something as nebulous as "glamour" do check out the book. Where else can you find Coco Chanel, Virginia Woolf, Josephine Baker, and a history of cellophane all in one convenient package?

An Elegant Remedy

2011-04-18T08:25:00.005-04:00

It's allergy season again. The worst part of the year. It's too hot to cozy up like one wants to when sick, and the sneezes and sniffles put such a damper on picnic revelry. Some people swear by the hot toddy as a remedy, but I find that when my head is all stopped up the alcohol doesn't help. Plus, I want something I can drink over a period of time to keep things opened up. Not something I have to down in one go. Tea is great, but at a certain hour I need to switch to something less caffeinated so I can sleep. So here is my own recipe:

Simply Refined Herbal Tonic

Put in your teapot:

-Half a large lemon's peel
-Teaspoon or two of rosemary
-Teaspoon Honey
-Two Ricola Natural Herb cough drops

Pour in boiling water. Either remove strainer-basket or fish out lemon peel after 5-10 minutes to keep it from turning bitter. The dissolved Ricola are the key. They are both herbal and mentholated, so they really give the tonic its kick. Enjoy, repeat, feel better.

Going Gingham

2011-04-15T10:55:00.000-04:00

The last summer or two I've really found myself wanting a gingham dress shirt, but just haven't been able to find the right one. Often the pattern is too large, looking more like what you'd sit on at a picnic than what you'd wear to one. Or the pattern is simply too small and looks like your run-of-the-mill micro check. Finally though, I snatched up this burgundy number in the Brooks Brothers spring sale.

For me, this shirt is all about balance. The pattern is informal and the cuffs are simple one-button, but the cloth is crisp and the collar has a nice semi-formal spread to it. It looks great without a tie, or you can pair it with a dark knit and still look not too dressed up. And the best part is, while it looks seasonably appropriate right now, come winter you can throw it on under a tweed jacket with a woolen tie and it will look just as good.

Anyone who reads Simply Refined with any regularity will already know that I rarely wear denim, for no reason other than that I find wool trousers or chinos to be much more comfortable. But even if you love your selvedge I would keep the dungarees and gingham separate - unless you're going for a more Dukes of Hazard than Duke of Windsor vibe that is.

Hot Feet

2011-04-13T08:20:00.012-04:00

I'm not typically one for so-called "novelty" garb, but as with all rules there are exceptions. A friend of mine was kind enough to think of me and send over the above pair of Bresciani hose. I wrote recently about Pantherella, and Bresciani is certainly another step up the quality ladder. Hand-linked toe, large lightly ribbed section at the top to keep everything up, and fine-grade Australian merino are quite the combination.

These arrived though with a little surprise. My friend did tell me the pair he was sending were quite unique and had text embroidered onto them, but I would never have expected this. Upon opening the envelope, I discovered a pair of dark gray hose containing the first canto of Dante's Inferno. What a lovely way to spice up a pair of flannels. Yes, yes, it's all a bit kitsch and unusual, but it's good to have a bit of tongue-in-cheek fun now and again, isn't it? In fact, I'm now considering stitching some verses of Pope's onto cocktail cuffs. But I would never wear these shirts with Signore Alighieri's stockings - that would just be ridiculous.

Getting a Good Read

2011-04-08T08:25:00.014-04:00

Anyone who know anything about me knows that some of the few things I like more than fine clothes and a good drink are books. So when they have to do with dress and drink, all the better. Sadly, unlike the demand for the latest pulp novel, demand for the best menswear tomes often wanes and they don't get reprinted.

Luckily for us, we live in the age of the digitally-armed gent. So, get thee to ebay, Amazon, and other corners of the internet and seek out these amazing old volumes. Gentleman's Gazette recently reviewed a book entitled Nothing but the Best by Thomas Girtin, and within minutes of reading the review I had a used copy ordered on Amazon for less than ten dollars shipped. Often, it's this easy. Men in Style would be a notable exception, with copies frequently going for hundreds of dollars online. Take Ivy had the same status until its reprinting was announced.

So, do yourself a favor and buy a book this weekend. Seriously, for less than a good cocktail you can give yourself something even more savory. Whether Elegance, Nothing but the Best, The Englishman's Suit, or anything else, happy reading.

Horween Shell Cordovan Video

2011-04-06T08:30:00.002-04:00

Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan from Horween Leather on Vimeo.

I stumbled upon this video just yesterday and had to post it here. By the twelfth minute, my mouth was watering for some Alden #8 captoe boots. A professor of mine wore a couple-year-old pair of #8 wingtip boots to a recent department event, and I must admit to spending a large part of the evening trying to answer the following two questions: 1) Were they my size? and 2) How could I best get them off his feet without his noticing?

A number of smaller shops and outfits have recently begun making accessories out of the envy-worthy hides, and in more colors than only the usual #8 and black. Since, as you can see in the video, you really don't get much usable leather per shell, it's great that people are finding ways to use all the leftover bits. Less waste is never a bad thing. Makr and VooDoo both make wallets and iPad cases (with the latter's offerings being far more affordable), while Leffot makes a "moneyclip" of sorts, along with watchstraps and belts. The stuff seriously lasts forever, and will only get better with age. Enjoy.

A Sweaty Solution

2011-04-04T08:49:00.005-04:00

Everyone's feet perspire. Some people can get away with not wearing an anti-persperant under their arms, and still finish the day fresh and dry. But I don't know anyone who can wear shoes all day, sans socks, and not end up with a smelly, wet mess.

Thus, I introduce to you all one of the few things that still possesses the ability to draw me to a shopping mall - the Aldo terrycloth insoles. I discovered these during my high school years, working in an outdoor shopping center across the walkway from the footwear vendor, and they have been an invaluable part of my summer kit ever since. I am not one of the aforementioned deodorant-free folks to begin with, so going sockless usually meant sore feet, smelly shoes, and eventually having to trash pairs before their time due to lingering odor.

You just stick these puppies (which come in whole sizes US 7 -12) in the bottom of your loafers, mocs, or what-have-you, and they absorb and wick away moisture. When they start to stink, just throw them in the washing machine and they come out good as new. The cushioning is nice, but minimal, and my only words of warning are not to use them if your shoes have a shallow toe-box. They can make the toe-box too tight and thus blister-inducing. But, otherwise, they're my little secret to staying cool and dry come the hot and sticky season.

Inauthentic Authenticity

2011-04-01T08:01:00.079-04:00


Credit: The Hill-Side

I generally try to resist trashing brands, blogs, and retailers here, feeling that if I don't have anything nice to say, follow the platitude. But, this one got under my skin, and so here I go hopping on the hate-on-workwear bandwagon.

Check out this copy being used to sell The Hill-Side ties on the Context webstore:

The Hill-Side takes a tough, working man's approach to neckwear. These ties and handkerchiefs are not fancy or fragile, they are not merely decorative, nor are they status symbols. They are meant to be worn hard, every day, and they gain character with each use. Designers Emil and Sandy Corsillo source the majority of the fabric from Kojima, Okayama Prefecture, Japan, where fabrics are lovingly produced with artisan pride.

No, this is not an April Fools joke. The link above is solely so you can see for yourselves.

If any of that doesn't sound like total nonsense to you, please comment and explain to me what I'm missing. Seriously, I'd really like to know. The entire pitch seems to boil down to: a) There is only one correct masculinity, which b) is based on working at all times and not being frivolous in any way, and that c) if you do not agree with both a and b, you are somehow inauthentic and emasculated. Then comes the misplaced patriotism.

The product packaging has four, yes four, USA locations on it, but somehow only manages to mention Japan in tiny letters under a staple on the back. The fabric's "origin" is Japan, but things are "MADE" in the USA. Somehow, being made in "Bkln" and "Conn" (See Brooklyn and Connecticut) is supposed to signify an inherent quality that foreign goods could never hope to achieve. There is no mention of whether the ties are handmade by craftsmen or sitting on a New England conveyor belt. But, instead, it's much easier to place a value on the place and proclaim "None of that wishy-washy foreign stuff for us!" We real American men must make everything ourselves, with our bare hands. Including hors d'oeuvres apparently.

You can tell from the above picture how critical the supposedly-functional necktie is for these guys and their ability to drink Bud and roll philo dough. A necktie does in fact have a function - to be decorative. Anything else is beyond my comprehension. Ironic facial hair and an expensive apron (it's a garment specifically made to get dirty for Christ-sake) are all part of meaning business. No frilly, effeminate, decorative foppery for these men. Instead of admitting that the acts of cooking and dressing are not emasculating, the advertisers turn the kitchen into a pseudo-garage and grunge it up with a denim apron. The American man cooks, but he doesn't cook like a lady. He Man-Cooks in a chambray cravat, without which he might as well be making a casserole. Value-baiting at its finest.

The Made in Uh'merica, manly-man crap has reached a level of pure absurdity. Rather than hiding behind fake notions of authenticity, patriotism, and what it means to be a "real man," why don't we seek out real craftsmanship, quality, and passion in whatever form it takes? And if you still think that it makes you a lady to like tying a piece of silk around your neck, even just for the simple pleasure of it, then you've got much bigger fish to fry.

A Study in Contrast

2011-03-30T08:46:00.005-04:00

Spring has sprung, but St. Louis has been largely overcast as of late. Although the last few days have been a bit chilly as well, it just doesn't feel right dressing in conservative winter colors as March comes to a close. With the sky a pale shade of gray, and natural light barely noticeable, some of the more shocking vernal shades are still a bit harsh on the eye. My solution has been to work with smaller swatches of subtle contrast to keep things light, but not too light.

The photo above is a perfect example of this. A garish pochette would look out of place, a futile rebellion against mother nature's directions. But, the shots of dark red and marigold set themselves off nicely against the blue ground, which all but blends in completely against the coat. Now there is nothing left to do but sadly stow away the flannel, get the lilac, kelly green, and orange bits of my wardrobe ready, and wait, impatiently, for the real spring.

Learning "The Rules"

2011-03-28T08:20:00.001-04:00

This weekend I saw Renoir's masterpiece "The Rules of the Game" for the first time. Filmed in 1939 and consciously set on the eve of World War II, the film has a depth and texture unlike any other. I will jump gladly onto the bandwagon and say it is one of the best films I have ever seen.

Clearly the predecessor of Julian Fellowes' posh dramas, La Règle is interesting in a totally different way. While Fellowes' films are reliably entertaining and beautifully filmed accounts of the various mores of early twentieth century British aristocrats, they lack the rawness of Renoir's adventure. The characters are all eccentric, but in utterly mundane ways. They each have outbursts and peccadilloes that linger behind every word and deed. The background is often more important than the foreground, and your eye is constantly adjusting itself to the incredible shots. In short, the film has great depth.

So, even beyond seeing this because it is enjoyable, I think there is a lesson to be learned here about looking. Look deeply, not just precisely. Often the harmonies created by disparate elements, which may or may not seem immediately connected, hold the greatest interest. Whether in a painting, a film, or even an outfit, the eye is capable of much more than you might think. Enjoy.

The (W)hole Story

2011-03-25T08:00:00.002-04:00

I love wearing a buttonhole, and will usually take any chance I can get to shove a bloom in my lapel. This evening I have the privilege of attending a cocktail hour and banquet for my university department, celebrating successful exams for the juniors and the completion of theses for the seniors, which is a perfect opportunity for horticultural expression.

Though there is little precedent for it, if any, a small white or pale yellow narcissus is my personal favorite for day-wear. The standard rule, as Mr. Astaire does much to support, is a white carnation or gardenia for the sun-lit hours, and a red one for the evening. The contrast between the deep red petals and dark suit or dinner jacket is difficult to beat - it's a contrast of richness, rather than stark separation. Orchids are indulgent, although sometimes fun if the occasion is informal enough. Some may disagree, but a rose always seems out of place on a jacket to me. Unless part of a wedding party, it just never looks quite right.

The important thing is to steer clear of those "prepared" buttonholes, with leafy paraphernalia distracting from the central bloom. The key here is simple elegance, not turning your tailoring into a shrubbery. Simply wrapping the slightly damp stem in a piece of foil or clear tape will prevent it from wilting for a few hours and keep the chlorophyll off your finery.

Bond for Breakfast

2011-03-23T08:02:00.006-04:00

One of my all-time favorite breakfasts has got to be "Eggs James Bond." The original Fleming recipe though is for 4 people, and I have found over time that simply reducing his approximates doesn't always yield the best results. So, below is my recipe for one:

First, head a small pan on low heat, just barely hotter than it needs to be to melt butter. Whisk together three eggs, and make sure they are as combined as you can get them. Any lumps of yolk or white will only ruin the silky effect. Season with salt and pepper to taste. I personally like mine to be more creamy than peppery, but to each their own.

Once your pan is hot, put in about an ounce of butter, and allow it to melt before adding the whipped eggs. Continue whisking gently in the pan to avoid any large clumps from forming, and as soon as they begin to come together, pull off the heat and add another small bit of butter. Again, this is to taste, but if you add another whole ounce you won't really taste the eggs at all. Along with the butter throw some finely diced chives into the mix, and whisk until combined and the eggs are just set. You want them creamy, not runny.

Plate them up with some hearty brown toast and a glass of bubbles if you're feeling festive. Most mornings though coffee and orange juice suffice just fine.

A Glittering Chuckle

2011-03-21T13:43:00.000-04:00

Since I've spent the greater part of the last twenty four hours traveling, I thought I would just share a short anecdote on this Monday morning.

Walking down Bond Street can often be like tumbling through a kaleidoscope, what with all the fist-sized gems of every color in the shop windows. But, while strolling along last week on my way to fetch some macarons from Laduree, a young boy seemed much more enchanted by the displays than the goods. Just outside Mauboussin I saw a boy of no more than 5 or 6 years giggling and pointing excitedly at the cut-class chandelier-like fixture hovering above some of the more heavily-faceted diamonds I have ever seen. His mother had stopped to look at the rings and brooches, but they were inconsequential to the lad. He only wanted that monstrosity of glitz. I couldn't help chucking and thinking to myself that sometimes that's what we're all after anyway.

A Week of Watteau

2011-03-18T03:12:00.027-04:00

I spent the greater part of this week awaiting my ticket time at the Royal Academy of Art to see the new exhibition of Watteau's sketches. Humble chalk never created anything so charming as this massive archive of studies-for-nothing. Watteau often sketched for its own sake, drawing on various figures and studies when necessary for his paintings, but rarely with that end in mind when he put stick to paper.

Most notably, Watteau is credited with the creation of the fêtes galantes, a sort of aristo-idyllic scene, in which lords and ladies displayed the excessive emotions of stage characters in a bower or other such pastoral locale. Less talked about though are his boudoir scenes, many of which he destroyed before his death. These include women and men in various states of undress, putting on or taking off clothes, in a variety of what I might gingerly call "compromising situations."

Charming is simply the only word for his work, and if your experience is limited to his paintings I will insist you are missing out. If will be in London between now and June and haven't already clicked away from this nonsense to buy your tickets, do so post haste.

You Know You Have a Problem When...

2011-03-16T03:29:00.001-04:00

I don't usually do this, but this was too funny not to. Yes, this is a reblog. If you don't already follow Die, Workwear! on tumblr, you need to. Here is his list of reasons why you might know you have a problem:

1. You’re on vacation and you find yourself constantly worrying about how many menswear RSS feed updates you’ll have to scroll through when you come back.

2. When you’re in London, your girlfriend wants to go to the British Museum and you’re trying to think of a way to convince her that Savile Row would be more fun. When she wants to see other parts of Europe, you start researching what cultural life there is in Naples. Also, neither of you have ever been interested in Budapest, but now that you’ve learned about Vass bespoke …

3. You’ve considered moving to a region with longer winters just so you can wear FW collections more often, but then shudder when you realize you would have to find a new tailor and dry cleaner.

4. You feel kind of lonely and empty inside when you come home and don’t see a package waiting for you at your doorstep.

5. The sole motivation for advancing your career is the shoe collection that you hope you’ll one day be able to afford.

6. You find that your early years of sneaking glances at women are now coming in handy when eyeing particularly well dressed men.

7. You’d rather flip through a swatch book than Playboy.

8. You’ve bought things that you’ll never wear, and don’t know anyone who would, just because they’re interesting in and of themselves and would be nice to have in “a collection.”

9. Your friend asks you for your opinion on a pair of shoes he’s considering buying, and you don’t even know where to begin.

10. You know how to say wool in six different languages and “where is the bathroom” in two.

11. You get annoyed when sales associates know less about construction and materials than you do.

12. You avoid shopping at Barneys or Saks with your girlfriend for fear that one of the sales associates may come and greet you by your name while you’re with her.

13. Without you requesting, your tailor occasionally sends you swatches of fabrics you might like.

14. You hold on to seasonal catalogs you get in the mail for “archival purposes.”

15. You’re about to have sex with your girlfriend, but then have to pause so that you can fold and hang your trousers by their creases, find hangers with molded shoulders, and insert cedar trees into your shoes.

I can honestly say I am guilty of all of the above. How about you? Any others to add to the list?

The Sage of Chelsea

2011-03-14T03:03:00.005-04:00

At the suggestion of Mr. Nick Foulkes, whose opinion on all things Victorian should hardly be ignored, I shuttled myself off to Chelsea today to visit the house of Thomas Carlyle. In a small row-house in that then unfashionable corner of West London, one of the greatest minds of the nineteenth century churned out some of the most critical and comprehensive tomes ever written. Now the fashionable flats, complete with local gastropubs and shoe shops, would make the man wretch.

Carlyle was a man of many opinions, who did not in any way hesitate to express them. His influence is traceable into every crack and crevice of the thinkers who immediately followed him, and the simply-decorated parlour on Cheyne Row saw Dickens, Wilde, Mill, and countless others take tea and conversation with the Sage.

It makes one reflect, standing in a room filled wall-to-wall with leather-bound books in varied languages and origins. A brilliant albeit eccentric scholar, Carlyle needed absolute silence to work and generally preferred to be away from society. If Mrs. Carlyle hadn't been so insistent, he would have been perfectly content remaining in the Scottish countryside. If only he had, I might have been able to afford a flat in Chelsea.

Best Bitter

2011-03-11T03:27:00.003-05:00

No, that's not part of a pint, but rather a glass of Fernet-Branca. I was over in Spitalfields the other day to visit Timothy Everest, who I will be writing a piece about soon, and just had to drop in to St. John Bread and Wine. If you're not already familiar with Fergus Henderson's temples to good eating, please click that link and explore.

It was mid-afternoon when I popped by, so I didn't need a whole meal. Instead, I opted for some olives, foie gras and duck liver toasts, and the above glass of Fernet. Fernet is a favorite of Henderson's, and having never tried it before I thought it was worth a go. A type of Italian amaro liqueur, Fernet has been around about a century and a half, and the brand Fernet-Branca has supposedly been using the same recipe since day one.

No questions about it, Fernet is an acquired taste, but I do recommend checking it out. For those of you familiar with other bitter and herbal liqueurs, this is nothing like them. There is something distinctly medicinal and mentholated about Fernet that I haven't encountered anywhere else. In fact, it has been marketed on-and-off as a tonic, and supposedly is great for hangovers and menstrual pains. Go figure. Earthy, tart, minty, all describe the taste, but all insufficiently. When I get home, I know the next bottle going on my shelf.

Sweet and Smokey

2011-03-09T02:04:00.001-05:00

I don't have a particularly over-developed sweet tooth, but a good piece of chocolate gets me every time. Typically I stick to the darkest, most bitter varieties. I find the nutty and fruity flavors present in cocoa intriguing in the same way one might ponder a single malt or cigar. Enter the tobacco chocolate bar.

Artisan du Chocolat, the brainchild of Gerard Coleman, is a London-based chocolatier attempting to softly push the boundaries of what chocolate can do. Nothing radical or edgy about it - just really good chocolate, given as much care and attention as top-notch coffee, fine wine, or any of the other craft-foodie obsessions. One of Gerard's creations is a bar of dark chocolate infused while warm with a selection of American and Oriental tobaccos. I thought this too good to be true, and had to rush over to their boutique within Selfridges to get myself one.

The tobacco flavor is quite subtle, but definitely there. Up front you get the tart fruits of a bitter chocolate, followed by a dry but creamy mouthfeel. Then, as you breath in after swallowing, an extremely pleasant aroma fills your mouth and nose. It's almost incense-like, the perfect lingering finish. I might have wanted the flavor to be a tad stronger, but maybe I'd be over-doing a good thing.

Travel Troubles

2011-03-07T02:30:00.004-05:00

It is yet again time for me to rant about the indignities of airtravel and the ways we can try, however futile it might seem, to make it a little bit easier. Amid the modernity and sparkling facade of the Heathrow in the picture, is apparently the airport I flew into. The glittering glass panes were always in sight, but just out of reach.

After waiting for half an hour at the gate with no word from our crew, and mutiny clearly on the horizon, us steerage passengers were informed that there would be buses waiting outside the plane to take us to the terminal. The next forty five minutes or so involved a crammed bus ride, terrible body odor, long walks, dozens of stairs, and a customs-hall-under-construction. Luckily I made it out alive, in one piece, and not too much worse for wear.

Now the helpful part. Often I travel with my full-size umbrella, carrying it on the plane. Luckily I left it at home in favor of picking up a small travel brolly here in London. That fortuitous decision, paired with my choice of lightweight layers and comfortable loafer made things slightly more bearable. Schlepping big items or heavy bags around in hot, uncomfortable clothes is just madness. Keep things simple. A laptop bag or briefcase, a small duffel or trolly, a lightweight scarf and/or cardigan, a pair of your more full-cut trousers, and a soft, comfortable shirt will see you through. You don't want anything bunching, squeezing, or constricting, and you most certainly don't want to be the guy trying to get the v-neck over his head without waking up the neighbor.

Happy Anniversary

2011-03-04T08:12:00.003-05:00

Well, we made it! One year ago I launched Simply Refined, with absolutely no idea where it would take me. I'm happy to say it has been a great year, and I want to thank everyone who made that possible. Thank you for reading, commenting, and being interested. I've got quite a few big plans for year two, and if there is anything you want to see more of, anything you'd like to see me add, or any other suggestions, I'm all ears.

Now the other announcement. I'm off tomorrow evening for two weeks in London, and have quite a few really interesting interviews scheduled. So keep your eyes peeled for an exciting next few weeks.

Again, thank you, and cheers!

The Little Things - Socks

2011-03-02T10:31:00.000-05:00

People all over the web lately have been posting about socks. Somehow it has become THE hot topic for anyone writing about clothing in any way. So, naturally, I have to throw my opinion on the pile.

After seeing the sale at Sierra Trading Post for Pantherella socks, I picked up a few pairs and have been giving them a go the last few days. I'd heard that their construction and materials have been going downhill in recent years after being bought by a larger company, but to be honest, the slip can't be too bad.

I obviously can't give you can report on durability yet, but the socks wear beautifully. They come all the way up to the base of my knee, and I didn't have to tug at their tops once the entire day. The footbed is lightly cushioned, so it both fits easily into a pair of oxfords and keeps your dogs comfy. Add a handlinked toe, with no raised seam to speak of, and you're on your way to hosiery heaven. And, at their current price, you can't go wrong at all.

Big announcement Friday, so stay tuned!

Weekend Read

2011-02-28T08:04:00.011-05:00

While most of this weekend was spent working on my thesis - due tomorrow - I did find some time to relax and decompress. I wrote last week about kicking up your heels and recharging, and so I decided that if I'm going to follow anyone's advice, why not my own?

I've always been a fan of Mr. Ian Fleming's most famous character, but until a few months ago had only ever seen his films. And no, I'm not talking about Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. Fleming is amazing at creating compelling, enjoyable characters, involved in plots that pull you through them at light-speed. From Friday to Monday I rocketed through On Her Majesty's Secret Service, and anticipate polishing off another novel by the end of this week. Accompanied by the requisite martinis of course. We all need a break from Balzac and Plato every once in a while, no?

Neue Wave Art

2011-02-25T08:42:00.003-05:00

www.nytimes.com

A friend of mine sent me this article from Thursday's New York Times, entitled "Fin-de-Siècle Hothouse, Plush and Neurotic." It's about a new exhibition at the Neue Galerie in New York City, "Vienna 1900: Style and Identity," focusing on turn-of-the-century Viennese art and design (big surprise, right?).

It's often easy to forget that the phenomena of the fin-de-siècle were not limited to any one country. Most often talked about are France and its Belle Époque and England with its Gay 90s. But, as the Neue Galerie shows, Vienna had a lot to offer. It's design was decades ahead, and its artists drew on a variety of styles and inspirations that had been lost to the rest of Europe for decades or centuries. Check out the article at the NY Times, it's quite a good read.

I'm a sucker for museum shops, and the Neue Galerie has one of the best. They bring authentic Viennese craft to the States, rather that selling kitschy recreations. I would absolutely kill for these cufflinks, but for what they cost I'd rather save up for the Klimt.

The Import of Indulgence

2011-02-23T08:02:00.001-05:00

This week has been crazy, and I've been running mad - you might have noticed the lack of a post on Monday, which is the first one I've missed in almost a year. Things show no signs of stopping until the middle of next week, so my solution is a simple one: indulge.

I'm going to kick up my feet, read a good book, and sip a glass of Armagnac. The phone is getting turned off, I'm not checking my email, and I'm going to genuinely relax. It's important to do, and especially here in the States, we're taught to feel bad about it. Work work work, but don't play play play. Whether its a special glass of wine, an extravagant purchase, or whatever trips your trigger, actually enjoy when you indulge. Balance in life, as in most things, is key. So, with that, I'm off to sip, savor, and snooze.

A Friday Find

2011-02-18T08:03:00.010-05:00

This photo seems to capture that perfect mix of buttoned up and disheveled that is so hard to achieve. The price-tag danging from the bottom coat button is merely incidental - forget its there.

I pilfered this snapshot from The Armoury's tumblr. If they're not already on your list of daily doses of menswear fun, add them at once. These folks are a Hong Kong menswear shop, and carry the best of the best. Smedley knits, Gaziano & Girling shoes, and Fox umbrellas are just a start. As far as I can tell, the tailoring is mostly MTM although they do carry stock.

Enjoy the weekend, and do spend some time poking around The Armoury.

The Way, Not The What

2011-02-16T08:23:00.001-05:00

The internet is full of product guides; some are great, and some not so much. But, while one group of editors may tell you to pull up your trousers and throw on a blue blazer and another group to tuck those trousers into your boots or grab some fingerless gloves, some things remain the same whichever style you choose. There are the "whats" of dressing - jacket, trouser, shoe, accessory choices, &c. - and then there are the "hows" of dressing - drape, harmony, &c.

The whats change year to year, mood to mood, and day to day. And I'm not just talking fashion cycles, but even what you feel like throwing on each morning. Today might just feel like chinos and a washed-finish OCBD, and tomorrow flannels and a sportcoat, but regardless of what I cover myself with I think of the same things. I already mentioned a few of them above, but for me the most important concepts, although I hate to use that word here, are cut, drape, impression, and harmony.

To start with cut, since that is where it all starts, one should be aware of the shape of one's clothes. Again, don't worry about whether you like jeans or worsteds - it matters either way. The shape of the garments themselves should be pleasing. The way they sit on your body even more so. Proportion and comfort should work hand in hand, and the little secrets that make the thing what it is should be your little secret. This can be the subtle pleating in the sleeve-head of a jacket, allowing it to move more freely, or the way in which a waistband is gently curved to keep the rise of your trousers sitting perfectly. The insole of a pair of great shoes feels nothing like that of a cheap pair, but no one but you is the wiser.

Drape on the other hand is the more visible aspect of cut. Something poorly cut will never drape nicely. This again though is still anything but glaring. It is clear when the chest of your coat falls perfectly even when you sip your coffee, shake a hand, or turn around to see who called your name, but it's not clear why. A crisply-hanging trouser crease is a beauty to behold, but it's usually not the first thing you notice.

This brings us to impression. There is that old adage, supposedly uttered by the Beau about John Bull and noticing you are well dressed. Which in fact meant you were not. But, as long as you look beautifully dressed and not simply dressed in beautiful things, I don't see a problem here. The key is not to draw attention to any specific aspect, but rather to have them work together to form a single unified vision. No one wants to be the guy with the garish coat or glitzy tie.

And finally, we have harmony. Impression is created by harmony, drape, and cut. Things should work together, but not be too precise. You know, sprezzatura, and all that, but don't get too hung up on looking too contrived or too nonchalant. What is really important is that when you look in the mirror, nothing looks out of place or too precisely placed. And, as with most things, enjoy dressing or its all a waste.

Re-Watching Metropolitan

2011-02-14T12:35:00.000-05:00

I've seen Whit Stillman's masterpiece-of-manners a few times, but I rewatched it this weekend and particularly enjoyed it. If you haven't seen it, do so as soon as you can. I promise you won't regret it. It's on Netflix instant queue if you have it.

My favorite scene is after Nick takes Tom to Brooks to get a wintercoat, and they start talking about Nick's removable collars. He tells Tom that while few people wear them, they're a symbol. They symbolize the refusal to give in to "supposed convenience" and to stand against the encroaching barbarism of the day. While a bit melodramatic, and meant to be slightly laughable in Nick's case, I appreciate the sentiment overall.

Today's a good day for that sentiment too. Pamper yourself or your loved one. Don't give in to modern convenience - wear a buttonhole, open that bottle of above-ordinary champagne, or just plain enjoy yourself without worrying about what stresses await the next day at the office. Actually enjoy yourself. Happy Valentines Day everyone.

An Enjoyable Distraction

2011-02-11T08:35:00.006-05:00

Sometimes procrastination is the best motivation. While desperately resisting the pressure to just suck it up and write that paper I have looming, I hunkered down and watched the entire Esquire series Manufacture.

This is what I love about Esquire. They always know how to give a modern edge to classic styling without going overboard in either direction. Although I think we all know which side of the ship I routinely fall off of. Mr. Patrick Grant from Norton & Sons and E. Tautz, both or which I've written about before and admire greatly, leads us around the UK for the best of British craft.

It's a fun watch, if you're into that sort of thing. And it makes a nice diversion from Hellenistic Philosophy, unless you're into that sort of thing.

Mid-Week Movie

2011-02-09T08:22:00.007-05:00

This week has been busy, and as a break I treated myself to a glass of port and the 1949 Kind Hearts and Coronets. Alec Guiness plays about 90% of the characters, and to great avail. The film has a Wildean wit, with an Edwardian flair. Needless to say, I enjoyed it.

One thing struck me as particularly interesting wardrobe wise - other than the multitude of garish frock coats of course. During a scene in his St. James's apartments, our anti-hero Louis Mazzini is lounging about in the wonderfully eccentric dressing gown pictured above. Before the 1930s or so, the dressing gown usually had these broad peak lapels, although we are now used to the more elegant shawl collar. Gentleman's Gazette has a great article on this transformation here. The moiré silk doesn't do Signore Mazzini any favors in keeping things in good taste, but there you have it.

Well, if you haven't seen the movie, I highly recommend it. Enjoy the rest of the week, and best of luck until the weekend.

On Heritage as Such

2011-02-07T08:44:00.004-05:00

As I have mentioned before, the last few weeks have seen a slew of fashion shows and events, and the onslaught of yet another season's trends and particulars. But, oddly, one of the things making a statement these last few fashion cycles is the notion of the "heritage brand." Maybe I'm being persnickety, in fact I'm quite sure I am, but this seems a bit dubious and I wish to pick it apart, if for nothing but self-satisfaction.

Right from the start, there seems to me something suspicious about a company releasing a pile of new trinkets under the guise of a return to golden times. Yes, one can correct the error of one's ways, but the idea of a brand seeing the light and giving up cyclical commercialism in favor of some call to classicism strikes me as unlikely at best and deceitful at worst. I'm not suggesting that heritage brands don't exist or can't be positive, I'm just suggesting we keep our wits about us and not let some centuries-old founding date and a bit of faux-aged chintz trick us into re-outfitting our lives.

That said though, many brands do a fantastic job, but only when heritage is more than a byword. It's all good and well to say you were founded 300 years ago, but if your goods look and function just like the chap's who opened shop yesterday, I could care less. Two brands in particular spring to mind instantly when I think of real heritage: Holland & Holland and IWC.

First, Holland & Holland. When creative director Niels Van Rooyen says that he is serious about the company's history, he's not kidding. After Holland & Holland was taken over by Chanel and got a bit "fashiony," Mr. Van Rooyen left to work for the playful spirits at New & Lingwood down on Jermyn Street. But, eventually, the folks at Holland & Holland realized that what the world needed wasn't some shop claiming to sell "country fashions," but the authentic, warm, and personal purveyors they had been but a few years before. With the epiphany, Mr. Van Rooyen returned and brought with him the recreation of a hunting tweed that Mr. Henry Holland, the company's founder, had been photographed in while Queen Victoria was still a young woman. Technically modern, but still woven in British mills in a century-and-a-half-old design, the tweed, along with a collection of other corresponding products, proves that Holland & Holland's heritage is more than a number on the door.
IWC, although slightly different, has also been a longtime favorite of mine. I'd always assumed their watches would be too big for me and I'd be confined to admiration from a distance. But, last summer, a lady I know who wears a men's Portuguese convinced me to slip it on for giggles and I've been lusting after one of my own ever since.

I digress. Born in the later-half of the nineteenth century, IWC combined the ingenuity of American manufacturing with the precision of European watchmaking to create something truly unique in the world. I'll admit that fine watches really get my blood pumping, but I do find that many of today's most popular models, although engineering marvels, just leave me flat design-wise. I don't want a space-age contraption strapped to my wrist; if I did, I'd simply put my phone on a chain and stash it in my waistcoat pocket. In the last few years, IWC has released editions of their Portofino and Portuguese collections hearkening back to the early part of the twentieth century, when watchmaking, to my eye, was at its best. Clean design, stunning metals, and an elegance that transcends notions of casual and formal being the hallmarks. A Continuous Lean [, a great blog if you don't already follow it, posted a fine article a few days ago about the new offerings, so I'll leave the technicalities to them. But, suffice it to say, IWC proves that moving briskly forward can often mean looking languorously back.

It sounds simple when I say it like that, but trust me, it's not so. Too many brands and labels we see nowadays tout their centenary or some other such anniversary, without so much as batting an eyelash at what got them there. I'm not advocating anachronism, at least not here, but I am calling these so-called heritage brands on the carpet. Heritage, like bespoke a few years ago, and luxury years before that, is quickly losing its true meaning, and we don't want that, now do we?

An Unexpected Award

2011-02-04T08:30:00.003-05:00

Mr. Chris Cox of Easy and Elegant Life was kind enough to nominate me for his "Smart and Stylish" award earlier this week. If you don't already read Easy and Elegant Life, fix that right away, and then finish this post. It was one of the blogs that got me started blogging, and I rarely miss a day's musings.

So, without further adieu, here are seven stylish things you may or may not know about me:

1. Any elegance I hope to have inherited came from my mother's father. He was always a perfect example of the adage "Elegance comes from within."

2. Growing up, the name Ralph Lauren was synonymous in my house with the very ideas of dressing well and living with integrity. This is where my journey began.

3. I suffer from an overdeveloped sense of hyperbole, that sometimes leads me astray; deciding that I NEVER want to do X or ALWAYS must wear Y is a vice that I must often work to suppress.

4. The Portrait of Dorian Gray, while not what I would call the best novel ever written, is my desert island book and I can't imagine reading it less than once a year.

5. The art of good conversation is dying, and without it the world will be a very boring place.

6. The two situations that define character are how we say thank you and how we apologize.

7. Much to the surprise of my friends, I often relax before bed in a t-shirt and sweatpants (non-elastic-ankled, thank goodness). I am still human.

So now it's my turn to pass the baton, and here are my nominees:

Style Sage
A Suitable Wardrobe
The Naked Ape Gets Dressed
Dress with Style
Social Primer

Thinking of Sunshine

2011-02-02T02:11:00.000-05:00

I'm sitting here in the middle of MidWest Snow-pocalypse 2011 trying my best to stay warm. I seriously have not seen a glimpse of everyone's favorite star in two or three days, and while I love the gloomth provided by a blizzard that leave me homebound with a Maugham novel, pot of tea, and bottle of brandy, I would like to know the sun is still there somewhere.

But, just in time to remind me the sun does in fact exist, Rubinacci launched their long-awaited e-commerce site last week. The Sartorialist has done wonders to propel Mr. Luca Rubinacci to mainstream international fashion fame, but too many people have never had the opportunity to obtain any of his family's amazing offerings. Before last week, Milan, Naples, London, and New York were your only options.

To me, Rubinacci is the sun in silk and linen. Colors that make mother nature jealous and materials that you can't stop stroking are de rigueur. From experience I can tell you the knit ties are the most striking that can be found, and from the sheer amount of time I've spent lusting after the colorful loafers I think I can safely say the same. Fingers crossed, I'll spring for a pair in the not-too-distant future.

The London shop is run by Chiara Rubinacci, who is always sweet and nice to chat with if you find yourself on Mount Street (and why wouldn't you). Last summer though I finally got the opportunity to meet Luca while he was in town for a few days. We sat down and had a chat about his personal style and the new line of ready-to-wear he produced for Harrods, Luca's Wardrobe. Elegant goods, produced by a most elegant family - it doesn't get any better than that does it?

Lounging Around

2011-01-31T08:28:00.005-05:00

It's hard to believe Mr. Wooster could be grimacing wrapped in such an exquisite dressing gown. But there you have it. Mine is not made of such sumptuous silk - cotton in fact - but is just as much a comfort during these chilly days.

Saturday saw one of my favorite luxuries, one that I only get the opportunity to indulge in a few times a year, if that: I spent all day in dressing gown and pyjamas. I did have quite a bit of work to do on my thesis and a hefty chunk of Petronius to translate for Monday, but chose to do so curled up on top of the covers with a piping hot pot of Lapsang instead of bundling up and trudging off through the slush to the library. No interruptions, other than those of my own making of course, and a day that somehow managed to be both productive and relaxing. It just doesn't get any better for me.

So, while the chill remains, indulge if you can. I promise you won't regret it.

Dressing Between the Lines

2011-01-28T08:11:00.004-05:00

One way to think about color in dressing is as a series of distinct, individual tones that can be mixed, matched, and contrasted to greater or lesser effect. But, even ignoring its scientific qualities, another, in my mind more helpful, way to view color is as a spectrum. There is a complete spectrum, from black to white with everything in between, and then there are sub-spectra between various pairs of colors.

One of my favorite of these smaller spectra is the range from blue to red; more precisely, from the deepest midnight blue to the most vibrant scarlet. It is here that I find my favorite colors: royal purples, rich burgundies, inky blues, and countless others. These colors tend to have a depth and richness to them that my eye just finds inescapable.

When dressing, try working within a given spectrum as an experiment. I find that as long as you stay within color families, achieving contrast that is inviting rather than jarring is much easier. And, while tonal dressing might be exceedingly elegant, it is also tough to pull off. So, this weekend, pick two colors, dress between them, and let me know how you fare.

Waisting Away

2011-01-26T08:32:00.007-05:00

J Crew via Valetmag.com

One of the seemingly contradictory facets of what we like to think of as “classic” or “timeless” style is that it is, like everything after all, subject to the whims of fashion. Yes, yes, most devotees of Men’s Flair and similar outlets are not waltzing around in the latest “it color” and reinventing their wardrobe twice a year, but certain things do change over time. The most significant of these is cut.

Dinner-plate sized lapels seemed perfectly at home during the seventies, but as I know from a few regrettable vintage purchases, tend to look dated now. And the razor-slim lapels making a comeback as we speak will, no doubt, look foolish on charity-shop racks in 20 years. For me though, the current trend towards slim, low-rise, &c. brings with it a whole host of concerns for the classically-minded gent. I’m a short, slim guy, so it’s not as if I simply can’t fit into these clothes. Any time a brand wants to make smaller sizes for off the rack clothes it is a cause for celebration in my world, but smaller sizes and scanter proportions are not one and the same.

The low-rise trouser poses a panoply of significant problems. The image above illustrates this perfectly. No offense to J Crew (who I think are doing amazing things to popularize and disseminate high-quality, stylish goods amongst American men), but that tux is not what I would call clean and elegant. That dreaded white triangle kills me. You see it - the one between jacket and trousers that pulls the eye about as far from the face as it can go.

Maybe this is just a personal idiosyncrasy, I’ve been known to have them, but the meeting between shirt and trouser is the least elegant part of men’s dressing. No matter how precisely your shirt and trousers are cut, no matter whether bespoke, made to measure, or off the rack, this border is almost always unsightly and a mess. Add the low rise trouser to the mix, and you’re sure to get some blousing of the shirt, and eventually you might as well be wearing pyjamas. In this case, a simply cummerbund would fix the triangle problem, but that is really only a sartorial band-aid. A jacket cut to the proper length, and trousers not cut like hipster jeans would be a far-more-preferable solution.

Tucking in a shirt in fact requires slightly higher trousers to function properly. I’m not suggesting everyone need wear navel-grazing pants, but if you can’t fit a full-tailed shirt into the seat, your trousers are probably too low-rise. Trousers are all about long, clean lines, and making your lap look like a wave-pool isn’t doing anyone favors, even before your shirt comes out like a tsunami.

My vitriol might be a bit more than is called for in this situation, but gentlemen, pull your pants up.

Slush and Salt

2011-01-24T08:25:00.002-05:00

Most of us are familiar with that trifecta of winter-woes that is slushy walkways, excessively salted footpaths, and over-heated buildings. Having to undress, layer after layer, upon entering from out of doors is quite the annoyance, but there are more permanent effects as well.

Nothing will kill good leather and nice shoes like snow and salt - evidenced by the heels above. These boots, with a rubber outsole, serve as my main winter footwear, especially when it's wet. But, with a recent downpour of 8 inches of snow overnight, combined with St. Louis's inability to cope in any manner other than salting the city like a steak, even they haven't been up to the task this week.

The white gunk you see is the Shoe Goo I have had to use as an emergency fix to quickly cracking heels. The combination of saturating moisture, abrasive chemical salts, and over-heated interiors has been nothing short of shock-treatment for them, and desperate times call for desperate measures. Once fully cured, I can clean the surface up with a razor blade and a sharpie (quite complex, artisan a treatment, no?). Not optimal, but practical.

Gender Bender

2011-01-21T08:21:00.002-05:00

One of the most highly-talked-about collections in the recent slew of women's fashion shows has been the Tom Ford's first eponymous womenswear collection, and I must say it's interesting. I'm not sure it's my favorite of the women's collections, but it did get me thinking about menswear, womenswear and the relationship between the two.

Some designers seem to just tack their menswear onto the women's collection, while others try to unite them in a cohesive "brand vision" of sorts. Vuitton, specifically, does a great job creating an overall image, while maintaining distinctly masculine and feminine feels to their respective garments. Then there are houses such as Chloe and Celine making wonderful clothing for women, but we men can only sit back and admire the artistry. No Chloe boots or draped trenches for us. Yet.

It's this "yet" that seems to always come back to haunt these unisex designers. Thom Brown only designed for men…until he was pestered into designing a women's collection. Which, incidentally, turned out to be mostly men's tailoring sized for women. But for Mr. Ford, who most of us know for his classically inspired but thoroughly modern menswear, designing womenswear was a return. Lest we forget that he saved Gucci/YSL in the 90s and early 00s with a string of larger-than-life women's collections.

So maybe this Friday morning musing doesn't really have a point, but check the collection out here and let me know what you think. There is something about watching a women's runway show that I still find enchanting.

Pitti Inspiring

2011-01-19T01:20:00.000-05:00

Well, it's that time of year again. Fashion shows, Pitti Uomo, &c. have the fashion press blogging, tweeting, and photographing more than any reasonable human being would think possible. And I'm certainly not complaining. The only things I'm a little bitter about is that I'm stuck here in the States instead of roaming the lovely streets of Florence. Each year I look forward to the photographs that flood the internet from Pitti Uomo, and thanks to the explosion of street fashion photography they just keep getting better year after year.

This Pitti is so far no exception, and I have spent a great deal of time hunched over my keyboard either lusting after some coat or wondering why I didn't ever thing to pair two patterns or colors. And this to me is one of the great things about real style - it doesn't change only with the seasons, it doesn't only follow the mandates of trends, and it doesn't limit itself in scope or scale. Yes, I'm talking about photos from a twice-yearly fashion event, but forgive me that for a moment.

Style is a journey, and after a few years of scouring the web for pictures, I almost feel like I know the cast of characters whose journey I've been admiring. There is a small group of gentlemen whose faces just pop up day after day, year after year, and who always seem to be doing something just a little bit different, but definitely with a personal consistency. Some men always wear interesting stripes, while others layer in ways that defy convention. Each is different, and while not all of them sport things I would want to wear (see: hobo gloves, multiple waistcoats, and furry hats), I admire the spirit behind it.

And the beauty of this is that many of these gents, thanks to the wonders of bespoke, are wearing things truly unique to them. Their clothing and their character are inseparable. Not just because you can't saunter down to the local high-end department store and pick up a matching jacket, but because without their help you might not have even been able to imagine that jacket. The clothing, rather than something with which one identifies and adopts, is generating from the person himself.

While many of us cannot afford to dress this way, I think we can still learn something from this mentality. Don't always pay attention to how things are styled in shops, windows, &c., and just follow your eye. Mix, match, mix again, and above all, enjoy dressing. These guys sure do, and isn't that what it's really about?

Images credit - www.fashionising.com

A Note on Notes

2011-01-17T09:03:00.012-05:00

So with the holiday season winding down, now comes that partner to gift giving and receiving - the thank you note. Some people have allowed this courtesy to fall into the digital basket, but sending an email just doesn't do it for me.

This year finds me with my usual Smythson stationary, which I emboss myself, but with a new pen. My better half's family quite thoughtfully sent me a great new fountain pen for the holidays. I'm starting to build up a nice little collection, but this will be my official thank you note pen over the next few weeks.

Do you still hand-write thank you notes? Do you write thank you notes at all?

Wish and Wait

2011-01-14T08:21:00.010-05:00

Does anyone else have that one item they really wish they could wear? No matter how hard you might try, it just never seems to look or feel right, but for some reason you can't help yourself every time you walk into a shop? No fear, for me it's the cap.

Whether a bright red, like the one above from Dashing Tweeds, or a more somber grey, I just can't seem to walk out of a shop with one in hand. They're an excellent way to inject a little excitement and color into a look, but not for me. Maybe I'm just bitter because the Huntsman tweed one I found this past autumn was the only way I was getting my hands on this years extremely enviable check, but alas, it just made my head look funny.

So, for now, I wait. What's your wish and wait item?

Form or Fancy

2011-01-12T08:16:00.006-05:00

While on break from school I have found myself reading even more than usual. It is a great irony that those who spend their entire lives reading actually spend the least amount of time reading purely for pleasure. It's been too long since I've read a novel and not been preoccupied with what I might write an essay about. But, I digress.

This week saw me reading Childe Harold's Pilgrimage by that great Romantic, Lord Byron, and I came across this:

'Tis to create, and in creating live
A being more intense, that we endow
With form or fancy, gaining as we give
The life we image, even as I do now.

And, aside from it being a fantastic moment in the poem as Harold stumbles upon the site of Waterloo, it got me thinking about self-invention more broadly. To dress is, quite simply, to endow ourselves with form and fancy. And those of us for whom dressing is a pleasure relish each opportunity to do so. Our clothing ceases to be something material that adorns us, instead becoming a part of our very selves.

Take for instance tailoring. Good tailoring gives the body a shape that is impossible to achieve otherwise. I can't remember who said it first, but a wise gentleman once quipped that if clothing didn't make us look better we'd all be running about naked. Quite. But it's not that the curve of a brilliant coat is pure artifice - it is how we imagine the body to look and we sculpt ourselves appropriately. I'm not talking about some crazy notion of an "ideal body" that we construct and strive for, but rather each individual using cloth, color, and an infinite array of other tools to make the image in the mirror match that in the imagination.

I remember the first day real day of autumn this year my girlfriend giving me a little chuckle when I told her that I finally felt myself again. When I left the house in the morning and caught a glimpse in the mirror of flannel trousers, dress boots, coat, and tie, it looked "like me." And that for me is one of the greatest pleasures of dressing. Life is a canvas, and the things with which we fill it our paint. I bet Napoleon and Nelson would agree too.

New Shoe Day

2011-01-10T08:55:00.007-05:00

My favorite days might just be new shoe days. Last week in the post-holiday sales I was able to find a brilliant pair of Allen Edmonds oxfords. I wore them twice this week and then gave them a nice glacage finish on the toes and quarters. So far they seem to be wearing nicely, are extremely comfortable, and with AE's refinishing service I have years and years with them to look forward to.

I take great pleasure in polishing my shoes. It's a moment to pause, forget the chaos of the rest of my life and focus on something simple. Few things in a man's wardrobe look as refined and elegant as a pair of beautifully polished shoes. Right now I just use basic Kiwi wax, but I think I'm going to get my hands on some Saphir from A Suitable Wardrobe's online shop. It's great that someone in the States is finally stocking the stuff. I'll let you know what the results are in a few weeks. Click here for a lesson in good polishing technique from my mate Christian Kimber at Style Sage.

Cakes and Ale - And Some Perspective Too

2011-01-07T09:05:00.020-05:00

I'm currently reading, and quickly I might add, W Somerset Maugham's great Cakes and Ale. A musing of our narrator, William Ashenden, quite caught my attention and got me thinking. I thought I would share and solicit opinions:

I do not know if others are like myself, but I am conscious that I cannot contemplate beauty long. For me no poet made a falser statement than Keats when he wrote the first line of Endymion. When the thing of beauty has given me the magic of its sensation my mind quickly wanders...Beauty is an ecstasy; it is as simple as hunger...All the critic can tell you with regard to Titian's Entombment of Christ, perhaps of all the pictures in the world that which has most pure beauty, is to go and look at it. What else he has to say is history, or biography, or what not...Beauty if perfect, and perfection (such is human nature) holds our attention but for a little while.

So I'm not entire sure of my own feelings, other than a piqued curiosity, and a love of Maugham's prose. Any thoughts? My immediate reaction is to agree and say that what those of us contemplating the refined life are seeking is to search out and prolong these ecstasies. Our hungers are never fully sated. Or maybe the opposite. Back to reading...

A Morning at Carréducker

2011-01-05T09:08:00.003-05:00

Image: gievesandhawkes.com

Happy New Year to all. I thought for one of my first posts of 2011 I would share an interview I conducted back in November while in London. James Ducker, half of the dynamic duo that make ups Carréducker shoes, was kind enough to meet with me in his Cockpit Yard studio in Bloomsbury to talk bespoke footwear.

James ended up making shoes almost by accident. After university, James wanted to go to South America, but his mother luckily convinced him to try Spain first. While spending some time there teaching English, he discovered that a father of a student of his worked as a shoemaker, and he enrolled in a class in Barcelona. When the course was over, James kept making shoes as a hobby. Evidently he was no slouch, and upon returning to England was received into a coveted apprenticeship at John Lobb. This is where he met Deborah Carré, and the seeds for Carréducker were sown.

In 2004 the duo launched the mutually eponymous brand, diving head first into the London bespoke shoe scene. With names like Cleverley and Lobb down the road, the pair knew they would need to do something innovative and different if they wanted to make it. The craft of shoe-making is and old and traditional one, but Deborah and James wanted to respect this storied past while injecting it with a heavier dose of design and modernism. Wild bragging, contrast piping, and crazy colored skins are just a few of the options they offer, but really the only limits are the imagination.

The key to Carréducker's success though seems to me to be the intimacy of the process. They make less than a hundred pairs of shoes a year, and when you order a pair, you know it will be James and Deborah doing most of the work themselves. When I asked James about expanding the business, he told me "I would never want to stop making. This is what I love. I love making shoes. I can't imagine not doing it." This connection between artisan and consumer is one of the most distinct facets of bespoke anything. "You have to respond to it, change it, and you're involved in it," James told me. "Bespoke, under whatever guise it takes, is more about buying into a process than a product," and just as any house on Savile Row, "we insist on fittings, because it's not really a bespoke product if it doesn't fit you perfectly." You can be sure that when your shoes are delivered, James and Deborah are almost sad to see them go.

After his time at Lobb, James spent some time teaching shoe-making at Cordwainer's College and the London College of Fashion, and he and Deborah got the idea to start their very own Carréducker shoe course a number of years ago. Now they hold three courses a year, two in London and one in New York, teaching about eight students per session.

Carréducker's latest endeavor is a partnership with Gieves & Hawkes at No.1 & 2 Savile Row. "We're behind a glass partition in the shoe department, and you can just about see us from Vigo Street. I think we're going to provide a bit of theatre because you can actually watch us making." Unlike the tailors, who do most of their work in basements out of sight, you can actually walk right up to the glass pane and watch Deborah and James at work.

You can tell from the moment you meet him that James is someone passionate about what he does, and for me, this passion is one of the joys of real artisan-made goods. It's not just about "buying into a process" as James said, but but also about buying into people. Carréducker have lots of new and exciting things coming up that I'm not allowed to tell you about quite yet, but keep an eye out. I think we'll all be seeing a lot more of Deborah and James in 2011.

Some Wilde Advice

2011-01-03T08:43:00.002-05:00

As you know by now (if you've been reading), I received a new copy of Dorian Gray for the holidays, which was as good an excuse as any to read it yet again. Somehow I never run out of these excuses.

In one of the later scenes in the book, I came upon two bits of Lord Henry's wit that never struck me as similar until reading this time. "He atones for being occasionally somewhat over-dressed, by being always absolutely over-educated" and "[he] was under the impression that inordinate joviality can atone for an entire lack of ideas." The former more flippant and the later more cynical, I always thought these quips addressed different issues, but the more I ponder them the more they seem alike.

It really all comes down to one of the basic tenants of Simply Refined. Surfaces should not be merely surfaces - There is a way of being and a way of living to which one should aspire, not simply a way of dressing or a way of looking. Don't be just amusing, be interesting; don't just look elegant, be elegant.

A Little R&R

2010-12-31T09:01:00.001-05:00

This time of year is a puzzling one for dressing. One moment you’re loafing about the house, relaxing the waistband after a festive dinner with the family, and the next you’re heading out to a holiday party, franticly trying to get those damned trousers to button again. While the later has been written about ad nauseam (by myself amongst others), its the former I want to focus on here. How to dress casually, but elegantly is, I think, the true test of style - and not just at the holidays.

A gentleman typically looks his best in black tie. It’s slimming, makes one look taller, creates symmetry of the figure, and especially in our ultra-casual modernity, it adds an heir of distinction to even the plainest of men. I won’t disparage the art of great black tie, believe me, but I will say that for the style-initiates that haunt places like Men’s Flair, it’s not tough to look great. In fact, it’s hard not to.

Now when dressing casually, there are quite a few things to be considered. First off, you should not only feel comfortable, but look comfortable - just like Mr. Astaire above. Cloths should be softer and jackets and trousers cut ever-so-slightly less close. Generally the colors and patterns that dominate country dressing take over for the sobriety of city garb, even if the holiday dinner is spent around a table on the 40th floor of a metropolitan apartment building.

The trick, in my experience, is to find a balance between ease and effort. Living on a college campus, I don’t spend as much time “dressed up” as I would like, but I get a lot of opportunities for smart casual. Walking to class in pinstriped worsted cut like a razor would just make me look foolish, but I do typically find myself in some mixture of tailoring and more causal attire. The key is keeping things pulled together, even if the elements are each relaxed on their own. Their is a tendency to decide you’re having a “casual day” and to just throw things together haphazardly, but this only looks sloppy, not casual.

I personally have my own peccadilloes as well when it comes to dressing down. There is a particular pair of trousers I own that are old flannels handed down to me by my father, but they are a size too big for me. Maybe a size and a half. But, I often pull them on when running to get a bagel in the morning, or, when I lazily slide out of bed lacking the time to dress properly, they end up doing more than helping me satisfy my early-morning hunger. They look quite terrible, especially from behind, but I’m human and it happens.

More advantageously, because I spend most of my time dressed fairly casually, I have a decent array of corduroy trousers, worn-in chinos, and variably shaded grey flannels, along with quite a few “soft-washed” tattersall shirts to see me through most days. I resist the urge to go for the pyjama-like pants and instead dress with deliberate choices. And, unless I’m deluding myself, I think I look alright doing so.

So when you’re relaxing by the fire, or running errands at the weekend, ditch the suit and pull of something soft and casual. Sounds funny coming from me, but trust me, I’m sure you’ll look dashing.

Saving Swagger

2010-12-29T08:49:00.002-05:00

The above picture is of Mr. Christian Chensfold, Editor and Proprietor of Ivy Style. The post that accompanies said picture, entitled Inherent Swagger, received quite a bit of abuse yesterday. And, being the opinionated fellow that I am, thought I would give my two cents here instead of in the comments box.

A number of people assaulted Mr. Chensfold for going overboard and combining too many elements of go-to-hell style in one outfit. To that I say "Did you read the title?" Swagger, to me, implies not just confidence but an almost exaggerated confidence. Maybe this isn't what Mr. Chensfold meant, but I think combining the hat, pipe, and coat, while a bit heavyhanded if done with too much seriousness, works splendidly if one carries oneself with a little whimsy. That's swagger. It's knowing you love how you look, that others might not, and that you, frankly, don't give a damn.

So, to all of you who, like myself at times, might want to throw a few of your favorites together, I say go for it. Walk with confidence, enjoy what you enjoy. That's real style. Oh, and if you want to start donating to the "Buy Stephen a Polo Coat" fund, just shoot me an email.

Gift Debrief One

2010-12-27T15:31:00.000-05:00

I hope everyone had a great Christmas and is having a good holiday season in general. It really is one of my favorite times of the year, and not just because of the inevitable treasure trove that results. Family, friends, and a feast for the senses - my type of celebration.

That said, I do want to share some of the new objects that have entered my life over the next few weeks. First off is the book my lovely better half searched out. Rarely does a holiday or occasion come and go without my library getting a little larger, but this is something truly special. Last year, leather-goods maker Bill Amberg collaborated with Penguin Classics to produce a set of six specially bound novels. Eschewing the traditional hard leather cover in favor of a softer, more flexible option, Mr. Amberg covered a few of his favorite novels in buttery calfskin that ages and improves as you read. You change the book as it changes you.

Thus, my better half gave me another excuse to re-read what is quite possibly my favorite novel - The Picture of Dorian Grey. It's a shame Wilde only wrote one novel, but at least it's a good one. And there is just something perfect about leaving a mark each time I pick it up. Very apropos, and equally exciting. My little yellow, err...brown, book.

Merry Christmas Everyone!

2010-12-24T08:39:00.002-05:00

I just wanted to wish everyone a very merry Christmas. If you'd like to see my take on holiday formalwear, pop on over to Style Sage to check out my thoughts.

Best,
Stephen

A Pleasantly Scented Proposal

2010-12-22T13:01:00.000-05:00

So a few weeks ago I was in London and the kind people from Miller Harris agreed to meet with me and give me some insight into what they do, why they do it, and what things we should be on the look out for. I’m a huge proponent of fragrance in one’s life. I love walking into a room and catching a faint, familiar aroma and the subtle nuanced aromas of food and drink. Plus the most agonizing decision I make when the seasons change from warm to cold or cold to warm is what fragrance I’ll be wearing that season. For a boutique perfume brand to be overlooked by most men would be easy, especially one who’s most popular and best selling products are intended for women. But then most men would be missing out.

A very kind young lady named Charlotte from the main office and lab in Notting Hill met me at the Bruton Street flagship for a quick tour, tasting, and sampling. Yes, I said tasting, but we’ll get to that later.

Lyn Harris started doing bespoke perfumes under the name Miller Harris ten years ago, and although she still does bespoke the majority of her business is now ready-made personal fragrance, home fragrance, and other scented goodies. Though in ten years, she has managed to both grow the brand and keep its personal touch, which is something most brands have a hard time achieving in the first place, let alone holding on to. Lyn is in the office or meeting bespoke clients most days, and with her sister and friends part of the company as well, it’s a real family affair.

So although the most popular perfumes are Coeur de Fleur and Fleur Oriental, the first definitely feminine and the second a softer unisex option, their offerings for men are anything but scant. I left the shop with a bottle of Feuilles de Tabac, and have worn it every day since. When I step out in the morning I smell like I spent all night lounging in a leather club chair, sipping whisky, smoking cigars, and having very stimulating conversation, but luckily without the accompanying headache. With woody, smokey, spicy, and citrusy fragrances, Miller Harris has all the bases covered, so if the smokey spicy thing isn’t your bag, don’t worry. If you’re in London I highly recommend you drop by Bruton Street to check out your options.

I mentioned tasting fragrance as well. The Bruton Street shop has a tea room, complete with Lyn’s own personal blends of scented teas. These include takes on English Breakfast, Vanilla Assam, Floral Ceylon, and a smokey blend that had my nostrils tingling all afternoon. And I mean that as a compliment if it wasn’t clear. There were also fragrant olive oils, which if I had not had to worry about them leaking in a suitcase, would have been bought by the case. Just thinking of drizzling some herb-scented oil on a piece of grilled tuna, or some pepper infused oil on a pork chop has my mouth watering as I write this. By the time I got home, they were on back-order on the ecommerce site. I guess I’ll just have to wait until after the holidays.

Again though, with things like olive oil as well as perfumes, it all comes back to quality. During my hour or so with Charlotte, it just seemed to keep coming up. Lyn travels here twice a year to source this ingredient, there every two months to check the quality of such and such. At the end of the day, your product can only be as good as what you put into it, and Lyn Harris only puts in what she thinks is the best.

The holidays are a time for me filled with smells. I love the aromas of autumn and the holiday season. Rich spices, delicious foods, crackling fires, and more importantly the pleasant and familiar aromas of home. So give the fragrance of your world some thought, and if you want to inject something new, I recommend looking to Miller Harris.

The....Shirt Coat?

2010-12-20T07:43:00.002-05:00

Doing research for my thesis this weekend I stumbled upon this crazy piece of turn-of-the-century tailoring. The accompanying headline touted a miraculous new "Shirt Coat" for wearing in the heat of summer. Well, if a coat and a shirt is too much, I guess making them one garment is the only logical conclusion, right?

This garment presents quite a few confusions, such as how one properly puts this on, whether it is two layers or the braces sit against the skin, and in what scenarios would such a Frankenstein be permissible? Any guess is as good as mine, and the article provided with the picture said little more than "Wow, isn't this a really unique and new pattern?" So much for good editorial.

Also, sir, if it's so hot out you must resort to such things, might I suggest a bit less mustache wax...

Get the Blues

2010-12-17T01:33:00.000-05:00

So, after a week of casual posts, it's Casual Friday. Earlier in the week I posted two different casual looks I particularly liked. But, I realized I only focused on the waist up. And what's one of the easiest ways to make any ensemble instantly more casual: Jeans.

The photo above is of London tailor Timothy Everest MBE, looking sharp and relaxed at the same time. The bold pattern of the jacket, the scarf-inside-the-collar move, and the jeans keep things from getting too formal, even though the jacket and waistcoat are about as seriously-tailored as one can get.

Mr. Everest has a whole line of clothing he calls "Bespoke Casual" and even does bespoke-tailored jeans if you so wish. I don't think you need to go full bespoke on your denim, but keep things looking clean and crisp like Mr. Everest here and you'll be just fine.

More Casual

2010-12-15T08:35:00.013-05:00

So I thought I would follow up Monday's post about casual dressing with another. The gent just beginning to be interested in dressing is often drawn to the more formal elements first, but being able to dress casually yet elegantly is one of the true tests of the well-dressed man.

The mix of fine knit and rough jacket creates nice contrast, and the wearer gets the structural benefits of tailoring without the formal appearance of traditional lapels and pockets. Because of the color palate this look has a distinct country feel to it, but I think you could get a similar effect with a navy turtleneck and grey herringbone jacket. Arny's, the legendary Parisian outfitter, does this sort of thing better than anyone.

What do you wear on the weekends or when you're feeling a bit more laid back?

Cozy & Casual

2010-12-13T09:12:00.001-05:00

This might be the best casual look I've seen in a while. It's from the new Paul Stuart Holiday Catalog, and as anyone who reads Simply Refined with any frequency can attest to, I have a great love for Paul Stuart and their take on American luxury staples. As far as I'm concerned, they are the perfect embodiment of that classic, but slightly dandified American attitude.

Although you can catch a tiny glimpse of the button-up shirt behind the scarf, what I love about this look is that it highlights how elegant one can look without all the trappings of tailoring and haberdashery - the fact that the cardigan looks so cozy and the scarf as soft as a cloud doesn't hurt either. Soft and casual go so fantastically together, yet I would never mistake this gent for anything but distinguished. Obviously I'm a big fan of various shirt, sweater, and jacket combinations, but sometimes you just have to break out of the box.

As an aside, Paul Stuart's new holiday collection might be their best ever. And that's saying something.

Simply Refined Gift Guide 2010

2010-12-10T08:28:00.103-05:00

Well everyone and their dog is writing up a gift guide, but here is my two cents:

$50 and Under

Armagnac - Too many people think whisky is the only gifting spirit. This time of year, a good bottle of Armagnac is my absolute favorite. More subtle and elegant than whisky, but more broody than cognac, Armagnac has a touch of rancio that just sets it apart from the rest. Laubade VSOP is a good entry level bottle at about 40 USD.

Bespoke: The Men's Style of Savile Row - James Sherwood's newest production is truly a sight to behold. I've only had my copy for two or three weeks and have already burned through most of the copy and poured many hours into lingering on the beautiful images. If you care at all about tailoring, or know someone who does, you're only getting half the story if you haven't read this book. At this price, order two while you're at it - it may be the bargain of the season.

Smythson Stationary - Although at this price point bespoke is out of the question, the plain, no frills paper, cards, and envelopes make an impression on their own. Substantial, crisp, and enjoyable to handle, they're everything that is wonderful about the good old physical letter. A variety of colors can be ordered online.

$100 and Under

Rubinacci Knit Tie - A little bit different that your usual knits, the Neapolitan tailors extraordinaire supply some of my favorite ties. Zig zags, candy stripes, and other patterns abound, but you'll have to head to London, Milan, or Naples to get one. Sorry.

Umbrella - James Smith & Son would be my top choice at this price, but since they don't do e-commerce either, if you're not in London I vote Brooks Brothers. Their New Stick Umbrella is a solid, elegant choice. Every gent needs one.

Warby Parker Glasses - Under $100 for a new pair of glasses. Yes please. As you all know by now, I'm very invested in my specs, and a new pair is like getting offered a whole new look. Options abound, and rumor has it some new collections will be coming out soon, so tell them not to use the card too quickly.

$100 +

Winkers from Carreducker - Velvet slippers are a traditional, and usual welcome, gift. But, if you want something with a bit more excitement, check out Winkers from Carreducker. Replace the velvet with tweed, and not just any tweed - Dashing Tweeds, Harris Tweeds, and organic Isle of Mull tweeds. If anyone is feeling especially generous, you now know my fantasy gift.

Wine Class - Here at Simply Refined, education is at the core. While a bottle of wine is nice, the opportunity to learn how to better appreciate and enjoy wine is nicer. Classes range in price, but can get up there. Berry Bros. in London do everything from basics to first growth Bordeaux, and your local wine shop should have various options available.

The Ralph Lauren Vice Box - It's called a vice box for crying out loud. Decanter, crystal glasses, and poker supplies, all nestled away in a leather chest. Sign me up. For the person who actually has everything. Everything but this, that is.

A Cut and A Cut

2010-12-08T09:02:00.004-05:00

I recently stopped by Dunhill’s Bourdon House to see barber extraordinaire Brent Pankhurst and to refill my supply of his short hair creme, the only thing that will keep my stubborn locks in check. The newly re-packaged products come in black metal canisters and pumps that would be equally at home in a stealth jet or on a marble countertop. The old plastic was fine, but it’s just plain enjoyable scooping the morning’s dollop out of something as cool as what’s inside.

My hair-product-packaging fetishism aside, there’s other big news on the Pankhurst front. He’s moving. After 6 years at Dunhill, in both Jermyn Street and Bourdon House, Mr. Pankhurst is heading to Savile Row. It’s about the only step up he can make, although technically he’ll be moving down from the first floor at Bourdon House to the lower ground at tailor Nick Tentis. Direction is relative, is it not? The new shop will open early January, and you can expect the typical Brent Pankhurst hallmarks - lots of McQueen photos, a haircut second to none, and a distinct aura of manliness.

Plus, there will be Brent. If you’re anything like me, the second most important thing about a barber, after the cut they give you of course, is their personality. I want someone I’m happy to go chat with every few weeks. Someone who takes the time and consideration to make me feel welcome, relaxed, and indulged for those precious moments of respite from the outside world. Dropping by for a cut with Brent is stopping by to chat with an old friend, and you happen to come out looking refreshed.

Even if you’re not in the market for a new barber, I highly recommend stopping in Nick Tentis’s new premises in Savile Row. Although they’ve been around doing bespoke for years, Nick Tentis just moved into the space that belonged for years to Paraboot but had remained vacant for as long as I’ve been exploring the Row. Done up to look like the bedroom from Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey, decorated with saddle-wearing birds and mustachioed fox heads, and filled with exciting clothes, Tentis’s shop is one part simplicity, one part tomfoolery, and one part serious tailoring. Their outerwear in particular caught my attention - single breasted, belted wool coat in an oversize grey Prince of Wales with a purple overcheck might be the best coat I’ve seen in a very long time. Certainly not traditional Savile Row aesthetic, but beautiful, innovative, and bringing Brent Pankhurst to the Row. Not bad Mr. Tentis, not bad at all.

Elegant Lines

2010-12-06T08:45:00.004-05:00

The final day on my recent London trip was a Sunday, perfect for a bit of museum gawking. Too many options as usual, but I eventually settled on The Strand's dynamic duo: The Courtauld and Somerset House. The Savoy being around the corner for tea may have swayed me a bit, but more on that later. As usual, the Courtauld was a delight. But what I want to focus on here is the temporary exhibition at the Embankment Gallery in Somerset House - "Dior Illustrated: René Gruau and the Line of Beauty."

Now I know almost nothing about womenswear or couture. Women's fashion is something that has always eluded me; I can appreciate its beauty, but I make no pretenses at being knowledgable. Gruau's work though was a revelation. A close friend and artistic compatriot of Christian Dior, he seamlessly transferred Dior's poetry in motion to the flat page. The immense ethos conveyed in his illustrations was simply unbelievable.

If you'll pardon the reductive archetype, the "modern woman" and all her trappings float as effortless swaths of color in magazine adverts, perfume packaging, and paintings. She walks into a room, knowing all eyes will be on her, utterly unconcerned. She knows what she wants, who she is, and although undeniably alluring, she is in complete control of herself at all time. Intelligent and collected while reveling in her cheeky side. If you're in London before January 9, don't miss out.

In Good Spirits

2010-12-03T08:34:00.002-05:00

I've written before about my love of Berry Bros. & Rudd in London's St. James's. You get that wonderful Ye Olde Shoppe feeling while getting throughly modern service and product. If you're a frequent reader, you also know I love my smokey whisky. Smokey anything really. Something about that mix of meaty, vegetal, and medicinal flavors just really excites me. But, I digress.

I also drink unpeated whisky, albeit less often. One of my personal favorites is The Glenrothes, a lovely Speyside distillery owned by Berry's. Thus, when stopping into Ye Olde Shoppe, there are ample opportunities to sample the various expressions. The Glenrothes is unusual in that they release by vintage instead of a standard offering of various ages. My personal favorite is the 1991, although the 94 and 88 are quite delicious as well.

This week though, Berry's always friendly, always knowledgable Sprits Director treated me to something really special. John Ramsay, the malt master at The Glenrothes since 1991 was asked upon his retirement last year to create what he thought was the perfect expression of the house style, and thus The John Ramsay was born. Only 1400 bottles available, I was generously offered a little nip to expand my palate.

If the 91 wears an off the peg suit from Zegna, beautifully crafted of fine materials and a cut above most, the John Ramsay is discreetly decked out in flannel from Anderson & Sheppard. Silky, indulgent, and wonderfully articulate, the flavors of complex spices, crushed almonds, hazelnuts, baked pears, and dried grass seemed to unfold and make their presence clear one after another, giving me the full character of the whisky only after I took the time to reflect and re-taste. For me, unique sensory experiences like this is what drinking is all about. Cheers.

A Side of Dressing

2010-12-01T09:07:00.000-05:00

The old cliche tells us you don’t truly appreciate what you have until you don’t have it anymore, and that applies to all manners of things. While my 10 day London holiday has been amazing (I’ll bother you with more stories later), I have missed my daily ritual of getting dressed. Obviously I haven’t been strutting around Mayfair in my bespoke birthday suit, but it’s not the clothes I’m wearing that are the problem, it’s putting them on.

My morning routine usually consists of getting my lazy self out of bed, after quite a few “snoozes” of course, doing my toilette (brushing my teeth, washing my face, &c.), and then choosing the day’s ensemble before my pajamas ever leave my body. And then, if I haven’t taken too long, I get a few minutes for a calm cup of coffee before dashing off to class.

It’s probably not very nonchalant of me to be flagrantly displaying the care I evidently take in preparing myself for the day, but I think taking a few moments to care and consider is one of the greatest luxuries we have left in any matter. And don’t get me wrong, I don’t typically spend 20 minutes in front of the mirror matching ties and pouchettes, although it has happened on an occasion or two. It’s about indulgence for me, not obsession.

So without my whole wardrobe to select from, going over to the closet is far less exciting. With only five shirts and four trousers staring back at me, my most basic options are limited at best. Hmm, charcoal flannels with white and blue striped broadcloth? Or greenish grey worsteds with plain white poplin? And everything either gets finished with either a winter coat or blazer. None of these seem like bad choices….just boring after a week.

But, back to the actual act of dressing and not my poor packing choices. Some people start with their shoes, shirt, trousers, or even socks, but I find myself varying from day to day. Some mornings I wake up and the burgundy loafers call to me, while other days are POW check trouser days. And sometimes both. As I select my daily requisites, I lay them out on my bed, getting an impression of the outfit as it comes together before putting any of it on.

With the basics all chosen, my favorite rituals arrive. I stride over to my dressing box, spritz on a bit of perfume, and linger over the various links, knots, bars, and other paraphernalia nestled in the leather drawers. It’s a moment of pause. I’m mostly dressed at this point, I smell fresh and new, and I get to put the finishing touches on that day’s Stephen. Many of my little accents were gifts from those important to me, so the choice of my Grandfather’s old tie clip or my first proper set of cufflinks, given to me for high-school graduation by my ever-thoughtful Aunt, is always one of significance and memory. I leave the house feeling fresh, well put together, and wrapped in things which make me smile when I see them. And for me, that’s what it’s all about.

Back to Business

2010-11-29T03:06:00.002-05:00

Well as we speak I'm on a plane back to the States and school. It's been a fantastic week, full of interviews, festivities, and catching up with friends. Coming into this term's finals, I probably won't have the time to go through the interviews properly for a few weeks. But, after Christmas, keep your eyes peeled for some interesting stories about even more interesting people.

As a little teaser, I'll tell you know we've got perfume, shoes, tailoring, tweed, and much much more coming up in the New Year. Plus, a Simply Refined gift guide next week. Until then, back to business.

Hunting for (and in) Tweed

2010-11-26T02:49:00.037-05:00

Some people hunt in tweed, but I spend most of my time actually hunting FOR tweed. One of the best solutions in London to this problem is to head a bit out of the usual shopping corridor to Fulham to visit Mr. David Saxby.

His eponymous shop is a haven of color, pattern, and cut tucked away on an otherwise unassuming highstreet. A former journalist, photographer, camera-shop operator, and still a fantastic singer, Mr. Saxby has a personality just as vibrant and engaging as the Harris and Lovat tweeds, electric-colored corduroys, and Fox Flannels he works with. Norfolk jackets, overcoats short and long, three-piece suits, plus-fours, and myriad other wooly options await, but with an added bonus: there is stock in store which can be altered to fit, or, for the same price as the models in-shop, you can commission your own made-to-measure piece in any of the florid fabrics on offer. I had to re-ask my question about the pricing to make sure Mr. Saxby hadn't misunderstood me. And then when he told me his workshop was in the UK I nearly used a pile of cravats and cloth books as a fainting couch.

I wont be completely vulgar and discuss the prices here (you can find them on his website, linked to above), but suffice it to say they are shocking, all things considered. My meals for the next few months may be more Simply Simple than Simply Refined, but I should be eating my meager rations in tweed in no time. You'll certainly be hearing more about Mr. Saxby, his coats of many colors, and his vintage boutique, Old Hat, in the near future.

Perpendicular and Parallel

2010-11-24T02:39:00.001-05:00

Honoré de Balzac once wrote “Carelessness in dressing is moral suicide,” but we know that if carelessness is the number one sin, a bit too much carefulness is not far behind. There are the two ever-present opposite concerns of looking disjointed or ill-conceived and appearing a mannequin with everything matched to a fault. The key, as with all things menswear (and truly all things in life) is balance.

Now, don’t get ahead of me and think I’m advocating another contrived form of sprezzatura or offering up a “how to dress well in a world that generally doesn’t” guide. Those things can be important, but what I’m getting at here is a much more basic aesthetic principle - what you wear at a given time should harmonize, whether through unity or contrast.

A perfect example is colorful accessories. Typically a gentleman has four places for flexible color in daily attire: tie, handkerchief, cufflinks, and socks. Looking like you bought the foursome as a box-set from the discount bin is about the last thing you want. The habit of matching is tempting at times though. I personally have an orange handkerchief that I rarely wear except with a certain orange and navy tie I quite fancy. No one’s perfect. Often though, choosing things that are complementary colors and patterns results in a much better look than choosing things that obviously match. The result has more depth and interest, rather than a single note. Purple tie, burgundy socks. Orange handkerchief, purple silk knots. The combinations keep on going. That is not to say matching can never be done, but at least try to vary tone and texture to keep things interesting.

You also don’t need to make all four of these elements a statement all at the same time. A pair of somber socks can keep a bright tie and handkerchief from looking comical, while a plain navy tie can set off those striped socks you want to wear without distracting like more stripes might. A striped shirt with a spotted tie might look great, but if you throw in a printed handkerchief and some wild socks, the whole thing begins to look a bit overwrought. Balance between fun and foundation is key, and as always, the overall look should be greater than the sum of its parts.

Over the Coat

2010-11-22T03:00:00.018-05:00

Photo Credit: The Sartorialist

I'm just always warm. I wish it weren't so. It makes wearing the clothes I like near-impossible most of the year. Flannel and tweed are just not conducive to keeping one cool. So, I wear them anyway and just deal with it. I suffer through linen jackets in the summer because a completely uncovered waist just looks ungainly to my eye. But the one thing I just can't bear is an overcoat, and what a shame it is.

When getting dressed in the winter I have to choose either sportcoat or topcoat. The very thought of donning a coat and then another coat gets my sub-brachial waterworks going. I find a suit with an overcoat extremely dashing, but unless I had both cut in impossibly light cloth, I fear they would be more burden than blessing. A sweater and jacket is about as much layering as I can do without getting to my destination a steamy mess. Well, my loss I guess. What makes up your winter layering wardrobe?

To London I Go

2010-11-19T20:07:00.011-05:00

Well, here's the surprise I promised: I'm currently on my way across the pond for a much-anticipated ten days in London. I don't want to give everything away now, but keep your eyes out for some special interviews, updates on what is going on in and around Savile Row, and lots of great pictures.

Enjoy the weekend, and hopefully Monday I'll already have a few street style shots.

Savile Row - A Coat of Many Colors

2010-11-17T08:49:00.004-05:00

First of all, regardless of what else I’m about to say, don’t you just love this photo? Seriously amazing - click for a larger version. I suspect Guy Hills (the dapper gentleman perched atop the postbox) to be the photographer, although I’m not 100% sure. The photo is from Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke, the beautiful new book from James Sherwood. I’ll be reviewing it here in the next week or so. Expect good things.

So, back to the photograph above. I think it the perfect example of the spirit of Savile Row. It reminds me why I love the Row so much. Many people when they think Savile Row immediately think traditional, slightly fusty pinstripe city suits. But Savile Row offers much more than any single archetype. Whether blue, grey, or black, checked, striped, or plain, and even all of the above, Savile Row can do it. There truly are no limits. If you want slim and modern, head to Richard James (far left) for a razor thin suit worthy of the best modern gent. Soft and supple more your bag? John Hitchcock (third from right) at Anderson & Sheppard, whose traditional double-pinstripes look anything but fusty, has you covered.

For me, this photo does a fantastic job showing the underlying diversity of personality in Savile Row. There are two major things that define who each house is, their construction and their personality. One might even say that the former is largely a product of the later. Nick Hart (sunglasses, center) approaches tailoring from a very different place then Patrick Grant (right of Hart). Savile Row presents an amazing contradiction of unity and disparity that can’t really be likened to anything else. Saying everyone in the photo operates in Savile Row simultaneously scratches the surface and cuts the core of what they do. And some, such as the legendary Edward Sexton (third from left) no longer reside in the Row itself, yet it doesn’t get much more Savile Row than Mr. Sexton.

This ineffable quality, the animus of Savile Row if you will, is what makes it so special. It is, at the most basic level, about people. You, the customer, and a team of passionate people, each with your own ideas about dress and life at large, collaborate to create something in cloth that represents your joined perspectives. Whether you want to work with a man in long black coat or blue pinstripes (or a woman in smashing checks) is up to you, and what you walk away wearing can look like whatever your imaginations can cook up. But under the banner of Savile Row’s W1 street sign, you can be assured of one thing - your coat will contain more sentiment than stitching.

Busy, Busy, Busy

2010-11-15T14:53:00.001-05:00

Sorry to not have much of a post today, but thesis deadlines will do that. I do have an exciting announcement for Friday, so be sure to check back in!

For now, I thought I would leave you all with a quotation I came across in the magazine about which I'm writing my thesis:

"Few men are better acquainted than he [Sir Robert Peel] with the sartorial process by which distinctiveness can be aimed at and accomplished without the intrusion of the element of conspicuousness. The conspicuously well dressed man is not a well dressed man at all…[he is]a man not only of fashion, but of something very important besides – namely, good taste, strong individuality, faithfulness to personal style."

Fashion's Domain

2010-11-12T08:32:00.004-05:00

In his article entitled from the May 1900 issue of Fashion, The Baron states "If Fashion were concerned only with collars and cuffs, neckties and fancy vests - with clothes exclusively, to be brief, - its territory, surely, or the sphere of its influence, could hardly be dignified with the title of a "Domain." These are the little pearls that extend beyond the bounds of my thesis and make me reconsider my own contemporary opinions.

Fashion is anything but confined to clothing. There is a "fashion" for doing everything from doing up one's hair to walking to reading a book. Any daily activity is a further reflection of the way you conceive of and present yourself. The other use of the word, as in "to fashion oneself" is no accident. Simply, how do you see your clothing fit into the other facets of your internal/external personality? Are they similar or contrasting? Presumably one doesn't change one's table manners or style of speech as one does a necktie, but maybe they do. I know what I'll be pondering this weekend.

Substance vs. Style

2010-11-10T08:51:00.005-05:00

I think it’s safe to assume that if you’re reading this you like clothes. And not just wearing them, or buying them, but you actually like the objects themselves. Certainly, if you swoon over a perfectly placed breast pocket or an expertly folded necktie, you’re in the right place.
But, love of clothing qua clothing aside, the goal is to cultivate a sense of personal style. What you are, and how that is expressed by what you wear. When you look in the mirror, it’s not some designer/trend mannequin staring back, but you.

As many authors here have identified recently, editing one’s wardrobe is a key part of this. Accumulating a closetful of beautiful garments you don’t wear, can’t wear, or worst of all, wear and don’t enjoy wearing is useless at the end of the day. The beauty of clothing is that it’s art that require you to be complete, and that you get to live your life in, so start doing so.

There are typically two types of clothes that sit in closets unworn - old, poorly fitting things that should be stored aware if you think you might want them again, and tossed out if you don’t, and then there are those items so precious that the thought of breathing on them, let alone, dare I say it, putting your body in them, sends shivers down your spine. I happened upon a lovely pair of wholecuts this summer that I had been lusting after for quite some time. After wearing them once, out of sheer excitement, it was weeks, if not months, before they saw the light of day. Sure, you don’t want to be careless with those things that you cherish, but letting them gather dust is hardly enjoying them, is it? Not that I wear these shoes every day now, but even if they just protect the dogs for a leisurely saunter to dinner every other week or so, I get to see them, enjoy them, and remember how happy I am to have them. Make the things you love a part of your life.

The other problem with curating a wardrobe is conflicts in personal style. Do I want to have a Trad/Ivy wardrobe, a closet full of sharp city suits, a sportsman’s locker, or some other cabinet full of wares? The answer is all of the above. While I’m all for aesthetic continuity, your style should be you, not some headline to an internet forum. I like wearing corduroys and rugby shirts on lazy Sundays, spotted ties and a double-breasted blazer going out, and when the temperatures plummet I go for plush knits to soften the look of a sharp jacket. If you took a picture of me every day during any given week, it wouldn’t look like some pages torn out of a cookbook. But I would look like me, and that’s what it’s about in the end.

So yes, editing what you have, enjoying what you have, and figuring out some sort of continuity are all vital, but to me, the thing that tops it off is when you look in the mirror and on any given day the person staring back feels, without a doubt, exactly you.

Tie Up, Dress Down

2010-11-08T09:03:00.007-05:00

Sometimes you just want a snap of silk without looking all buttoned-up. And lets be honest, not many people can make disheveled look just plain casual like Mr. Astaire. So, when you want some silk and don't want to get the classic "Wow, what are you so dressed up for?" what is a gent to do?

On a college campus, wearing a tie is going to get me stares no matter what, but two things that tend to help are a) wear a sweater and b) don't wear formal looking lace-up shoes. By throwing a v-neck over a white shirt and colorful tie, you get a swash of color at the neck, while hiding the blades from view. Loafers or moccasins also do wonders for making you look less buttoned-up. That's why I almost always wear lace-ups with a suit, but that's another story.

So when you want some color wrapped about your clavicle, and it's not a gawkers-be-damned kind of day, there are always ways to balance formal and casual. Plus, this time of year, it's an excuse to start wearing those sweaters again!

Flannel Demystified

2010-11-05T09:06:00.001-04:00

Last week I posted on my love of flannel trousers, and a reader, Phil, asked me if I could please clarify what is actually meant by flannel, what makes it different, and anything else that would be useful in procuring a fine pair of trousers. So, Phil, here's my best stab at it.

Flannel, by definition, does not have to be a woolen. Cotton and wool are the most common, with wool, cashmere, or some blend thereof being the favorite for winter trousers. The surface is lightly napped, giving it the signature soft texture, and higher quality flannels will also be fulled (also called felted), increasing the density of the cloth. A looser weave will give the cloth a softer, more pliable feel, but for trousers, something a little more stout will hold a crease better, and flap around less when walking.

The finest flannel is made by Fox Brothers in Somerset. The original West of England Flannel, it has set the gold-standard for fine cloth for two hundred plus years and is still going strong. If you can't get your trousers made for you, people like Ralph Lauren are known to use Fox in their ready-to-wear trousers. Don't ever assume though - always ask. For other ready-to-wear options, Zegna's a good runner-up (if you can call Zegna cloth that).

Hopefully this was helpful, and I think I'll start occasionally doing installments in a series explaining various cloths, construction techniques, and generally the details that for the foundation of any wardrobe, whether we know them or not.

Giving Shoes the Boot

2010-11-03T09:14:00.015-04:00

I love shoes. There, I said it. Not that it's probably much of a surprise to anyone. But in the hierarchy of shoes, loafers, wholecuts, brogues, slippers, oxfords, &c., there is triumphant king in my book - Boots.

Once the only real shoe of a gentleman, boots fell out of fashion sometime between The Wars, and never really made a recovery. The oxford, so called because boys at Oxford wanted to have a sportier, easier to exercise in alternative to their boots, took over as the most common footwear-of-choice. Now the shoe of choice for most seems to be the high-tech, neon-adorned, space-age rubber polymer sneaker - but don't even get me started on that.

Back to the boot. I think there is something wonderfully elegant and refined about the way a boot removes any smidgen of sock from view. I have a drawer of multi-colored socks in prints, spots, stripes, and anything else you can imagine, but while I do find them a fun twist, there is just something slightly inelegant about the juncture between shoe, sock, and trouser in most cases. Sort of like that nasty meeting of trouser and shirt, but again I digress. There are a few main styles of boots, the chukka, the jodhpur, the desert, the country, the chelsea and the dress, but I'm going to stick to my two favorites here, the country boot and the dress boot.

In the fall and winter time, or whenever trouncing through a field, nothing seems as comfortable and as at-home as a chunky brown brogue boot with a commando or vibram sole. They've got heritage for days and are very purpose-built. Some may disagree, but I think there is a streamlined elegance to something like this that takes its function and creates a form that matches it; the colors are countryside, the materials are durable and high-quality, and the styling merges perfectly with tweeds, Barbours, and other such gear. The boot above is from Lodger Footwear, and while the brown and walnut colors are classic country kit, the black seems a great option for rainy, dismal city days.

But, the pièce de résistance for me in any wardrobe is a beautiful dress boot like those pictured above. There are many fine examples out there, but Carréducker, Gaziano & Girling, and Rider Boot Co. (pictured above) are the top of the lot. If you want to see more examples of some seriously exquisite footwear, check out Leffot's blog. Peeking out from under the turnups of a beautifully crafted suit trousers (or odd trousers for that matter), a great boot just seems so much more clean, refined, and for lack of a better expression, laced-up than any other option. They do come with a hefty price-tag, but for my money, a balmoral boot (such as the two-tone or suede and leather ones above) are the best investment a true gentleman can make. Although equal parts slightly-old-fashioned and slightly-quirky, if worn with confidence and quiet restraint I just don't think clothing gets much better than this.

Manhattan Monday

2010-11-01T09:02:00.008-04:00

If you haven't gleaned it already, I'm a man who changes with the seasons. I like linen in summer and flannel in winter. I love the scent of flowers in the spring and spices in the fall. And, like many people, I eat and drink with the seasons as well.

I always love a good martini, but as the temperatures drop I'm enticed to make them less and less. Whisky, cognac, interesting stouts and dark Belgian ales dominate my drinking life, but there are a few cocktails that creep in now and again. One of these is the classic Manhattan (the other big one is a Sazerac, which I'll show you next week), essentially a reddish martini to match the leaves.

Classic Manhattan

2 parts Rye Whiskey
1 part Sweet Vermouth
Dash Angostura Bitters

Stir ingredients with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a cherry.

Now for my being prissy. Use Rye, not Bourbon. With few exceptions, a Bourbon Manhattan is like a Vodka Martini - not a Manhattan. Also, don't be afraid of vermouth. Even if you're a "whisper of vermouth" martini person, good whiskey holds up to the vermouth and balances quite nicely. Again, here's where Rye beats Bourbon hands down. Instead of the sweet Bourbon flavors combining with the vermouth to make something that tastes like candy, you get the spice and menthol notes of the Rye enhancing the herbal qualities of the vermouth and vice versa.

Oh, and don't plonk a sickly looking red candied cherry into a perfectly good cocktail. Keep some dried Bing cherries soaked in brandy in a little glass jar in your refrigerator. They reconstitute partially and get a great slightly sour, slightly boozy taste. Stick one on a pick and you're good to go. And as always, the most important thing about a cocktail - Enjoy!

Fall Flannel

2010-10-29T09:47:00.007-04:00

It's official - Fall is here! I couldn't be more excited. Arriving to campus every day a sweaty mess was getting really tiresome, and it feels like most of the days when it wasn't scorching hot it was pouring instead.

Well now that's all over, and the cool temperatures have arrived and look like they're here to stay. For me that means one very significant thing - my everyday, go-to trousers officially switched today from cotton to flannel. I'm not really a denim guy, and instead opt for the soft comfort of a great pair of grey flannels, usually with a hefty turn-up at the bottom. Just like denim they go with everything, look best a bit worn-in, and keep the chilly winds at bay. Bring it on mother nature, I'm ready for winter.

Fits Like a Glove

2010-10-27T08:41:00.001-04:00

Nowadays most people only ever wear gloves in the dead of winter to keep the chilly air at bay, but as recent as two- or three- hundred years ago it would have been unthinkable to venture out with one’s hands bare. To shake a hand or greet an acquaintance without gloves on would have been considered rude and crass, but over the years, as formality has waned, so has the wearing of gloves.

Along with many other accessories, gloves used to be rigidly coded for different times and places, with many of these “special” gloves being extremely hard to find these days. The various incarnations ran the full gamut of formality, all the way from court appearances to a weekend at one’s country cottage. These include the famous “kid gloves,” wore with white-tie formal wear (now commonly made of cotton or calf instead of the namesake goat), grey buckskin for morning dress, yellow chamois or black calf for city wear, and brown pigskin for the country.

Gloves are something which have always both fascinated and vexed me - I have particularly small hands, so while I love the idea of gloves I often find them ill-fitting and unenjoyable to wear. Enter Chester Jefferies. Based in Dorset for almost a century, Chester Jefferies supplies made-to-order gloves to gents worldwide. They offer a full range of dress, sport, equestrian, driving, and everyday gloves for men and women in too many styles to name. Most models allow you to choose from a variety to leathers (cape, hogskin, deerskin, chamois, &c.) in colors ranging from the typical blacks and browns to greens, blues, purples, reds, and any other color you can imagine. And that’s just for the outside - they have an equally versatile series of options for linings, including silk, wool, chamois, and fleece for whatever climate you might inhabit.

Their typical MTO option asked you to measure around your knuckles and to indicate if you are a male or female, but for only a twenty pound one-time fee you can trace your hand and have the gloves made completely to specifications. I’m currently planning on ordering a pair in the next few weeks in either blue or green cape with a wool/cashmere lining for the winter. Anyone have experience with CJ already and want to offer any advice? I’ll certainly post a review when they come in, and hopefully my days of cold fingers and ill-fitting gloves are over.

Smoke Signals

2010-10-25T09:16:00.001-04:00

I'm sitting here on a rainy Sunday night writing this, comforted by a nice cup of tea. Not just any tea, but Lapsang Souchong, a black tea smoked over Chinese pines during the drying process. Mr. Nick Foulkes wrote about Horace Walpole's coining the term "gloomth" on Swellboy not too long ago, but for my money while Walpole may have coined the term it's Thomas de Quincey who epitomizes the feeling in Confessions of an English Opium Eater. As his description of the joys of opium comes to a close, de Quincey digresses for a moment and rhapsodizes on the merits of a warming cup of tea in a dimly-lit room on a cold winter night - then he does some more opium. Narcotics aside, I don't think it gets much better than that.

I'm not a frequent cigar smoker, and I find I like things flavored with smoke more than the taste of smoke itself. One of my favorite feelings is being warm and cozy when it's wet and freezing outside, and nothing does that for me like smokey food and drink. That savory, salty, vegetal kick really warms me from the inside, and since I don't have a fireplace in my apartment, it's about as close as I can get. Whether it's a cup of lapsang, a glass of peaty whisky, or even a great smoked beer, I crave that smokey goodness more and more as the temperatures plummet. Bring on the gloomth.

The Big 100

2010-10-21T01:00:00.009-04:00

Well, I, or rather we, made it. This is my 100th post on Simply Refined. It seems like just a few weeks ago I was debating whether to launch or not, and here over 6 months and 100 posts later we're still going strong.

First things first. Thank you to everyone who reads and comments - it wouldn't be much fun to do all of this without you. Let me know below in the comments to this post what you like, what you don't like, and what you'd like to see me do as we head up to 200 and eventually the one year anniversary.

I'd also like to thank everyone who supported my getting involved in style journalism from the beginning. A year ago I had not a single post or article to my name, hadn't yet met all of the lovely people in and around the West End, and would never have anticipated in a million years all that has happened since. I won't go through all the names here, but you know who you are, and thank you so much.

All you readers will know by this point I love to give my opinions on things, whether they're asked for or not, but today I thought I would just mention briefly the most important lesson I learned from the most elegant man I've ever known, my mother's father. My grandfather always loved to quote from Shakespeare's Hamlet, "This above all, to thine own self be true." Style, manners, and elegance come from within, not from without, and the smile you give to someone kindly in passing cuts a more dignified silhouette than the finest Savile Row suit. Just my, or rather my grandfather's, two cents.

Collaborate This

2010-10-20T09:22:00.013-04:00

I don't know if anyone else has noticed, but it seems to me that fewer and fewer brands are actually designing their own wares anymore - it’s all about the collaboration, or “collab,” right now. Moreover, it’s equally prevalent with cult brands and highstreet/mall stores alike. Sperry by Band of Outsiders, Uniqlo by Jil Sander, H&M by Lavin, Brooks Brothers by Social Primer, and Moncler by Thom Browne are just a few examples from the last year or so. I certainly don’t want to make this sound like a bad thing; often the results are amazing. But, like everything, there are the goods and there are the bads.

Before getting into the actual collabs, I think the trend says something really positive about the current culture of fashion and style. Collaboration and the combination of different perspectives offers a wider array of options to a wider audience than we have ever seen before. Not everyone can buy a really unique Albert Elbaz creative from Lanvin, but with some help from H&M you can come close. Not the same, but close.

And the blogosphere has its fair share of designer collaborators as well, including Social Primer, Street Etiquette, and quite a few others getting chances to share their visions in cloth and leather in addition to the words we’re all familiar with. This dialogue between brands and the people who consumer and promote their goods is fantastic in my opinion. It’s the one thing that has always lacked in the fashion word - top-down is being supplanted, albeit in a small way, by a dialogue between the design studio and the street.

That said, there are also some less-than-successful collabs in my opinion. Not to hate on Brooks Brothers, I’m a big fan and patron, but Black Fleece seems more like the retail equivalent of a shot of adrenaline to the heart than a long term solution to me. Even though Thom Browne and Brooks Brothers are, at their cores, both purveyors of a certain mid-century American look, that is where the commonalities end for me. Or at least where they should end. Rather than neutering Thom Browne’s outrageousness in order to fit a sort of exaggerated Brooks looks, maybe either brand should have tried refining their own styles to fit a different audience. Maybe this would have been more successful than each brand censuring themselves in order to fit into some nebulous middle ground that is too extreme to be one and too tame to express the other.

To be fair, Brooks Brothers has both added some more “contemporary,” whatever that word means, updates to their classic looks since and have engaged in the fun and preppy reversible bowtie collab with Social Primer - and those I can firmly get behind.

Often these collabs either give us a bit more individual style at a more moderate price point or allow the consumer and the producer to refine ideas and create an even better product. And other times they just seemed forced and muddy the waters instead of clearing them up. But, either way, in an industry of egos and monolithic labels, a little conversation never hurt anyone, now did it?

Vanity Fair: Think Hepburn!

2010-10-18T08:16:00.020-04:00

Before you ask, yes, I know that's not a picture of Ms. Hepburn. My girlfriend picked up a copy of November's Vanity Fair, with a couture photoshoot entitled "Think Hepburn!" I was sitting across the room reading another magazine, and she excitedly called me over, shouting "Look! There's a whole shoot of Anderson & Sheppard suits." I don't have to tell you all I was over to the couch eagerly leaning over her shoulder faster than you can say drape-cut.

Lo and behold, the shoot is styled after Funny Face, and to keep things looking authentic, the stylist chose to go with Mr. Astaire's favorite tailor. Audrey's doppelganger is clad in this seasons couture, all bright colors, whimsical shapes, and excitement. But, like great tailoring should, her male companion fades elegantly into the background at first, before catching your eye as it tires of the frocks' intensity. The lady is always allowed, and encouraged, to take center stage, but the gentleman is always right there, solid as a rock.

If you want to see the epitome of understated elegance, get thee to a magazine stand and pick up Vanity Fair!

Fall Scents

2010-10-15T14:36:00.000-04:00

I've written a lot recently about shifting my wardrobe for fall. The changes in fabrics, the changes in colors, &c., but I've ignored one of the best things about fall: the smell.

This week the leaves started turning, and finally the stale smell of pollen has been replaced outside with that crunchy leaf smell you only get once a year. Gone is the smell of ripe tomatoes in my kitchen, instead replaced by root vegetables and other earthy flavors. Along with rotating my clothes I also like to rotate my grooming and household products to reflect these changes as well. Lavender, usually my choice for soaps and cleansers, gets replaced by sandalwood and pepper scented products, and I'm on the hunt for a replacement for the light and summery vetiver cologne I've been wearing these last few months. Plus, I don't usually burn candles in the summer, but on cosy fall and winter nights, nothing beats a wonderful candle - I can't wait for the temperatures to drop.

Any scents you associate with the change in seasons or products you like to change seasonally?

A Tale of Two Shoulders

2010-10-13T08:19:00.016-04:00

Another contributor to MensFlair, Mr. Andrew Williams (of www.bespokeme.com), wrote a little while ago about the Rope and Pagoda shoulders, two of the less common shoulders available on men’s jackets. To go back to basics for a moment, I wanted to discuss the difference a soft versus hard shoulder makes on the overall look and feel of a jacket. Oscar Wilde always said that a man dressed from his shoulders in reference to braces and trousers, but I think its a good rule overall.

What spurred me to write about this was the arrival of both the Polo and Ede & Ravenscroft catalogues in my mailbox this week. The Ede & Ravenscroft book is full of crisp, cleanly tailored suits in beautiful worsteds and flannels, all of which have a razor-sharp shoulder silhouette. Shot against the backdrop of London architecture, the suits’ silhouettes have lot in common with their art deco surrounding. Lines are clean and sharp, with a broad, structured top cementing the look. From this broad shoulder line, the rest of the coat comes to a pointed closure at the waist, and then the trouser crease keep the long, lean line going all the way down to the highly polished oxfords.

The opposite is present in Ralph Lauren’s fall presentation. The jackets seem to have only slightly more structure than a piece of knitwear, and without the sharp shoulder line, they look effortless and comfortable, not to mention much more casual. Because these jackets don’t have darts to help pull the back and waist in, they rely on a slimming drape, barely grazing the body, and Mr. Lauren chose to finish them off with odd flannel and corduroy trousers and hefty brogues in the provided images - all of which have a 1920s countryside vibe to boot.

The differences in these shoulders serve not only to define the shoulder-line of the wearer, but also serve as a basis for the entire fit of the coat. I happen to have a suit from Ede & Ravenscroft with a similar silhouette, which seems right at home wandering through London, but something about that line just seems too harsh for wandering around campus in the fall. Something about that soft sloping shoulder and sack cut just screams fall casual to me.

There’s lot of talk about “no brown in town” and similar rules about colors, cloth, &c. and what one can and cannot wear in certain situations, but I think cut deserves debate as well. What do you all think about various types of tailoring and the environments they look/feel best in?

See the SAVOY

2010-10-11T09:00:00.003-04:00

Well yesterday it happened...the Savoy officially reopened for business following a massive, almost three-year-long renovation. Sadly I'm on the wrong side of the pond to drop by and see all the changes for myself (and to be fair, I never set foot in the old Savoy), but everything I have heard has things looking magnificent.

This is no ordinary hotel opening though. The Savoy was THE grand hotel of the Edwardian era, and continued to be the choice destination of the worlds finest for decades after. Monet painted masterpiece from his balcony , Noel Coward played the piano in the bar, and countless other celebrities, royals, and who's who made the Savoy their home while staying in London. Never a dull moment.

And, added to all of this, Mr. James Sherwood curated a museum exhibition housed in the hotel itself showcasing artifacts from the Savoy's illustrious past, as well as decorating a slew of Signature Suites modeled in the style of fabulous guest (Coward, Monet, Dietrich, Chaplin, and a handful of others included). Next time I'm in London, I think the Beaufort Bar (built on the original cabaret stage) will be stop number one.

Game Time

2010-10-08T08:55:00.003-04:00

The weather this week has been a really weird mix of hot and cold. You know, the kind where you never know when you leave the house if you need to roll up your sleeves or pull something extra on. Typically its too warm in the afternoons for my blood, but at night I've needed a pullover on hand as the temperature drops.

This brings us to one of my favorite pieces of fall casual clothing - the rugby shirt. Shetland sweaters, heavy knit cardigans, and all the rest are great, but if I'm kicking back and relaxing, nothing screams casual for me quite like a rugby. I also especially like the look of a button down oxford under a rugby (a la Michael Bastian), which strikes a great classy-casual balance for me. Sometimes a sweater, no matter how thick, just seems too delicate and fussy - a rugby is warm, sturdy, and gets better the more you beat the hell out of it. My American is showing, isn't it.

Also, the MTM shirt I ordered a few weeks ago just came in. I'll be washing it this weekend and sharing the results ASAP, so keep your eyes peeled.

Changing With the Seasons

2010-10-06T08:46:00.001-04:00

This weekend we got our first real days of fall here in St. Louis, and I could not be happier. Don’t get me wrong, I love long summer days, but the end of a season always feels like a time for change to me. I’m tired of wearing the same seasonal clothes, and in this case the warm days that were a few months ago a welcome relief from icy winter are now just sweaty and dull.

Although our current pre-winter chill isn’t supposed to last too long, temperatures are certainly dropping, and I finally put away the linen and summer shoes this weekend. I don’t generally follow the “summer ends at Labor Day” rule, and feel fine wearing linen and white through until the weather says otherwise. But, once the flannel jacket comes out for the first time, the linen trousers just look funny hanging next to it in the closet.

So the next question is, once the crisp white trousers and comfortable-as-slipper driving loafers get boxed up, what do I replace them with? One of my favorite parts about the transition from summer to fall is the adoption of soft, tactile clothing. With most summer clothes, crispness is key - although lived in linen is just fine, high temperatures and bright sun to me just beg for crisp, clean-line dressing. As the leaves change color and the air gets cooler though, flannels and thick woolens become my everyday go-to cloths.

If you look at the picture of L’Avvocato above, he looks comfortable and refined, and although none of his clothing is what I would describe as “crisp,” he look immaculately put together. To some extent, by wearing clothing that never looks perfectly pressed (and isn’t supposed to), you can actually keep yourself looking fresh all day long. One of my least favorite things about summer is that because of light fabrics and the heat, by the end of the day I always feel I look like hell.

Now that the flannel is out and the sweaters are at the ready, it can only mean one thing…boot weather is coming, and as soon as it does, you can bet on hearing me cheer.